How to Make a T-Shirt Quilt

Updated on February 8, 2018
QuiltFinger profile image

I am a self-taught quilter, and I've sewn seriously since I was 14. I hope I can share some of the things I've learned through the years.

tshirt quilt block
tshirt quilt block

How to Turn Old Tees Into a Quilt

This quilt project is an awesome way to repurpose old shirts from sports teams, school, bands, and vacations. Use them to create an unforgettable and precious gift for a family member or friend. This tutorial shows how to make a t-shirt quilt with sashing, but you can use these instructions to make your own pattern. It's quite rewarding to see so many parts of a person's life and interests and create an item that encapsulates an era or a person.

Most quilts are made from simple geometric shapes (squares, rectangles, or triangles) that are sewn together with straight lines. In many ways, they're easier to create than clothing or other craft projects that require a precise fit. Just think of a quilt as one big rectangle made up of many little rectangles. Let's begin!

Supplies
Supplies

What You'll Need

  • T-Shirts. You'll need anywhere from 12-24 pieces. Twelve tees make a 42"x60" lap quilt. Twenty shirts make a large lap quilt (five rows of four). Twenty-four shirts make a twin-sized quilt (six rows of four).
  • 1 Twin-Sized Package of Quilt Batting. I use the Warm and Natural one because it's soft, unbleached, and has a rich felt-like texture. It's easy to work with and never shifts like polyester does. This is my go-to quilt batting. Craft stores have a good selection of batting sold in packages and by the yard.
  • Backing Fabric. A regular flat sheet will work for this, or you can purchase quilt backing (also called fat backs) that is sold in 108" wide bolts. You can also use regular-width fabric and sew the pieces together. For a lap-size quilt with 12 tees, you'll need two yards of 44-inch wide fabric.
  • Several 2-Yard Packages of Pellon Wonder-Under Fusible Interfacing. The number of packages depends on how many quilts you're interfacing. Fusible interfacing usually runs $5 per package and is an iron-on web of nylon-like material that will stabilize the jersey tees. Wonder-Under comes with a non-stick paper backing that is peeled off after it's applied.
  • Cotton Thread/All-Purpose Sewing Thread. I use Star brand cotton quilting thread by Coats & Clark, which costs about $8 for a large spool. They have a great selection of solid colors as well as some cool variegated options.
  • Iron. I use a cheap unbranded model. The only requirement is that it must get very hot.
  • Scissors/Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat. You can find kits on Amazon that include a rotary cutter, cutting mat, and ruler.
  • Marking Tools. These include items such as a lead pencil, tailor chalk, and disappearing ink
  • Sewing Pins
  • Large Ruler/Tape Measure. My favorite is Olfa's O'Lipfa ruler. It wraps around the edge of your cutting mat to help you make accurate cuts.
  • Lightweight Cardboard. This is an optional supply that can be used to make a square template. It's great if you don't have a large ruler or cutting mat. Tip: Cereal boxes are the perfect type of cardboard!
  • Extension Cord. This is to help you reach the middle of your quilt when you're fusing.

1. Square up Your Shirt Designs

Stabilize your shirt and cut squares.

  1. Separate the front of the shirt by cutting along the side seams. You can remove the sleeves or just cut all the way under the arm.
  2. Next, you need to make sure that the graphic on the front of the tee will be in the middle of your squares. The size of the blocks depends on the size of the largest graphic. I measure the largest design and add 1/2 inch to each side. That's the measurement you'll be using for all of your shirts. Usually, a 13-14" square will work. It can also be a rectangle if that's a better fit.
  3. Everyone has their own method for cutting up the shirts, and this is what works for me. I start by aligning the ruler so it is parallel with the top of the logo. The edge should be close to the bottom of the collar. See the photo above for reference.
  4. Make a straight cut across the chest from shoulder to shoulder seam. By making the first cut at the top, we are sure the design is aligned at 90 degrees, and it gives us a good foundation to make the other cuts and measurements.
  5. Make sure the center of the design is aligned with the center of the square and that there is an even space on each edge.
  6. Make two notches on the top edge, marking the width of your block.
  7. Make one cut down the left edge of the shirt that's perpendicular from your first horizontal cut.

2. Cut and Add the Interfacing

This will give you one 90-degree corner to align with your squares of fusible interfacing. Before you iron on the interfacing, make sure there are not any deep wrinkles or creases, which might become permanent when fused.

  1. Cut the fusible interfacing in 14" squares (You can cut five 14" squares from a 2-yard roll of interfacing.)
  2. Gently place your t-shirt on the ironing board, making sure it is neither distorted nor stretched.
  3. Align the interfacing with the two straight edges of your t-shirt and the notch. (See photo) Fuse this side first to maintain the alignment.
  4. Set your iron to medium, which might also be the Wool/Silk Setting or "II" mark to fuse. Use a downward pushing motion instead of gliding. Keep the iron on the fabric for about 10 seconds in each spot to fuse. You'll be ironing the paper side.

3. Fuse the T-Shirt Squares

  1. Iron on the interfacing with a smooth left-to-right motion, starting at the top and working down. Make sure the corners are well heated since this is where you will start peeling off the backing paper. Follow the package instructions if you're confused.
  2. Once you have the interfacing attached to the shirt, square off the edges of each block in measures of 14" inches square, or whatever size you are using. The process of fusing and squaring off 20 shirts takes about 3 to 3.5 hours and can be completed in one afternoon.

Tip: Keep the paper backing on until you assemble the blocks. Always allow the fabric piece to cool before peeling off the paper. If you have trouble with the interfacing lifting up, iron down the corners again to make sure that the interfacing has adhered. Put the paper backings aside for use later in the assembly process.

How to Incorporate Sweatshirts in a T-Shirt Quilt
How to Incorporate Sweatshirts in a T-Shirt Quilt

How to Incorporate Sweatshirts in a T-Shirt Quilt

Sometimes it happens. You have a favorite shirt you really want to include, but it's made from a thick, fleecy sweatshirt material. Don't fret! You can include it, but you have to keep the following tips in mind.

  • To minimize extra bulk, don't interface the whole shirt front. Apply a frame of 1.5" interfacing strips to stabilize the edges. Keep your strips 1/4" from the outside edge to keep the seam allowances as thin as possible.
  • If desired, apply spray starch to the shirt before cutting and applying the adhesive. It's up to you whether you'd like to complete that step first.

Make sure that your shirts are heat-safe before ironing. Nylon sports jerseys can be used too if you're careful. Some plastisol inks will melt and smudge, so avoid direct contact with the iron.

T-Shirt Quilt Assembling Option 1

The easiest way to assemble your t-shirt quilt is to sew the blocks to each other. Sew the blocks together into rows, trimming them to make sure the top and bottom are parallel. Then, attach the rows horizontally.

T-Shirt Quilt Assembling Option 2

The second option is to add sashing. Sashing is like a border around each t-shirt square. It's a great way to add size to your quilt, tie together a theme, or tone down a busy quilt. Don't worry, sashing is easier than it looks!

Sashing Example Steps

1. For this example, I used 2" wide sashing strips for a finished width of 1.5 inches. Cut sashing and borders from fabric running parallel to the selvage. This direction has the least amount of stretch, so it will lie flat and won't flare out or ruffle.

2. Cut the sashing strips a little bit longer than your blocks. Pin the sashing and tee right sides together, aligning the edges at one side and letting the sashing hang off the other end.

3. Assemble all of the rows with vertical sashing. Make sure the edges are parallel and pin together rows with horizontal sashing.

4. Cornerstones are optional accents for the sashing intersections. For the example, the sashing strips are 2" wide and the cornerstone blocks are 2" squares.

Tip: As you assemble your rows, you'll need to iron the seam allowances flat. Lay several sheets of the paper backing on your ironing board, and iron the seam allowances toward the tees. Your tees will stick to the release paper instead of your ironing board!

Put the rows aside and allow to cool before removing the paper again.

Curb Quilting Errors

Mistakes, big or small, happen to the best of us, especially when you're dealing with stretchy t-shirts. I prefer to call them challenges. In this case, the logo was a little bit distorted. It was also the longest design of all the shirts, which means that I cut all the blocks to this size. However, trouble struck when I cut the edge a little too close, and the design looked like it would be cut off when I sewed the pieces together. Here's the remedy.

  1. Sew guide stitches at the edge of the design with a large basting-size stitch.
  2. Pin your block to the sashing strips and sew from the t-shirt side.
  3. Follow the guideline, keeping your new stitch line just inside the first row of stitches.
  4. Flip your project over and admire your perfectly-placed seam!

t-shirt quilt polo shirt
t-shirt quilt polo shirt

Quilt Sandwich: Layer the Backing, Batting, and Top

Before you "quilt" your quilt, the backing, batting, and top must be secured together in a quilt sandwich. The first step is to fuse the quilt top to the batting.

  1. Lay your batting on the floor. Smooth it out from the center to the edges.
  2. Lay your top on the batting and smooth it out in the same way.
  3. Get your iron and an extension cord. Turn your iron to the wool or cotton setting.
  4. Use a muslin pressing if necessary to prevent the plastisol t-shirt ink from melting onto the iron.
  5. Fuse each block to the batting. Try not to distort the fabric with the iron.
  6. Press down and hold the iron there for a few seconds. (Use a downward-pressing motion rather than gliding side-to-side).
  7. Fuse the whole top moving from the center out to each corner. NOTE: Use a dry iron with no steam whenever you're working with the fusible.

There are several ways to attach your backing to the sandwich.

  • I prefer to use spray adhesive because it's so fast. My favorite brand is 505 Spray and Fix by J T Trading, but Elmer's Spray Adhesive also works. Elmer's is a fraction of the price and is available at drugstores and grocery stores. Lay your batting on the floor with the t-shirts facing the ground. Lay your backing on top with the right side facing up. Peel back the backing to the midpoint and spray the fabric in 12-15" increments. Lay the backing on and smooth it out. Peel the backing up again and repeat until the backing is attached. Smooth the back again to prevent bubbles and bagginess.
  • Big safety pins are also a good alternative. They are fast and work well. It's important to check the edges during the quilting to make sure the safety pins aren't bunching up the fabric. You may need to smooth out the back and re-pin the edges and corners.
  • The old school way to baste a quilt is to use a needle and thread, taking long stitches that can easily be removed. This works fine, but it takes an unforgettable amount of time! Only use this if none of the other options are feasible.

After your sandwich is together, you're ready to quilt!

quilted t-shirt quilt
quilted t-shirt quilt

Tee Quilting Options

Option 1: Stitch-in-the-Ditch

If you want to keep it simple, stitch along the seams only. This is called "stitch-in-the ditch." Using the Warm and Natural brand batting allows you to quilt up to ten inches apart. When you're stitching in the ditch, you can feel pressure as the needle pushes against the fabric, like a little wall, that allows you to stitch right on the seam so the stitching is almost hidden. Don't worry if you swerve a little. No one is going to look that close. Use your ballpoint needle to protect the jersey fabric and provide a nice, clean finish.

Option 2: Tying Your Quilt

You can tie your quilt if you're most comfortable with that. This provides a relatively quick finish if you don't want to use your machine.

Option 3: Free-Motion Quilting

You could do free-motion quilting, also called "stippling." For this method, you'll need a sewing machine with droppable feed dogs and a free-motion quilting foot.

When quilting, set your stitch size to approximately 3 mm (unless doing free-motion.) Roll your quilt up like a scroll, so it will fit under the machine. Always start in the middle and move out to the sides.

Hot Tip!

Use ballpoint or Jersey needles when piecing and quilting t-shirt quilts. These needles have a wider/fatter tip that pokes through knitted fabrics without tearing or ripping the fibers. I like Schmetz or Organ ballpoints size 70/10 or 75/12.

Once you're finished quilting, square off the quilt. Now, check out how to bind a quilt neatly and quickly.

What Do You Think? - Would You Enjoy a Video Tutorial to Go Along With This Project?

How helpful would a quilt along video be?

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If you have a question about the project, I will answer it here. Feel free to share pictures of your finished creations and experiences.

Questions & Answers

    © 2010 QuiltFinger

    Share Your Questions and Comments - Are You Making a T-Shirt Quilt?

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      • profile image

        clariseb47 2 months ago

        I have been working on my sons Marine tshirt quilt for over two years. I have just finished the top. I wish I had found this page earlier. Two questions:1. the shirts are mostly greens, some blacks,some browns. black shashing. what color backing. 2. will using tshirt, batting, and backing make this quilt heavy? the top seems heavy all ready. I haven't bought the batting yet, are there light battings? Thank you for such an informative page. I wish I had found this earlier in my process.

      • profile image

        Pam Pleasant 10 months ago

        Kinda freaked out. Since I just searched how to make a jersey blanket. And I see CBHS jersies!!! My son just graduated from there! Make mine!!!!

      • profile image

        Deeds2234 15 months ago

        When you free-motion quilt, do you always quilt right across the logos? If so, have you ever encountered any difficulties doing this, such as skipped stitches, or stitches that later came out in those areas?

      • profile image

        Jacquelina 21 months ago

        Hello & thank you ! I need help & have no point of reference....I'm using leftover tee shirts in many different color blocks sewn together for the sides. Do I sew these 3 inch wide strips with the interfacing up.....I've never finished a quilt & I do not want to have to use seam ripper....smile.....this . I believe is for the binding. Thank you for any & all comments & help, guidance.

      • profile image

        GNB 24 months ago

        I have 100%polyester soccer jerseys n have logos that might melt if I must fuse. Which interfacing is best? Do I have to baste it to a cotton fabric then to interfacing. I'm doing this for first time using poly shirts.

      • QuiltFinger profile image
        Author

        QuiltFinger 2 years ago from Tennessee

        Yes, absolutely. I have. Just be careful with the heat/iron if they aren't 100% cotton. Also, you may need to stitch closed the button front, and trim away a bit of the fabric from the back layer--(the one with the buttons) to reduce bulk. Let me know if this makes sense!

      • profile image

        SB 2 years ago

        Thank you for this awesome tutorial. Question: can you use polo shirts with the t shirts?

      • profile image

        Barb 3 years ago

        Thank you so much for the t-shirt quilt pattern. My grandson has tons of bowling t-shirts, he's in college now, thought I would make him a memory quilt using his old high school shirts.

      • shellys-space profile image

        Shelly Sellers 4 years ago from Midwest U.S.A.

        Making a quilt is a great way to use the T-shirts my son outgrows!

      • shadowfast7 profile image

        Sure Temp 4 years ago

        wish i could learn but it looks so difficult! :(

      • SavioC profile image

        SavioC 4 years ago

        I should have seen this lens a month back. My wife and me made a quilt for our little niece on her first birthday with her snaps (12 of them) . It was our first attempt in doing it but I guess this lens would have helped a lot.

        Nice one. Your instructions are very well put.

        Thank You.

      • Gypzeerose profile image

        Rose Jones 4 years ago

        I love your lens! Great instructions, anyone could do this.

      • profile image

        anonymous 4 years ago

        Such clear instructions! Thank you! Pinning!

      • profile image

        anonymous 5 years ago

        @QuiltFinger: Thanks so very much. I need to collect the T-shirts and get started!! I am excited about my projects!

      • QuiltFinger profile image
        Author

        QuiltFinger 5 years ago from Tennessee

        @anonymous: Thank you for the compliment! :D

      • QuiltFinger profile image
        Author

        QuiltFinger 5 years ago from Tennessee

        @anonymous: You're welcome! I'm happy to share. In fact, I think it might be my calling.

        So, Wonder Under is different from other fusibles, because both sides can adhere to the fabric once the paper backing is removed. Peel off the paper once the shirts are cool... or before you pin your pieces together. I don't have a lot of great craft stores near by house, so I do order Wonder Under. Sellers have it on Ebay and a few on Amazon. Heat-N-Bond Lite by Thermoweb is a similar product and I'm sure there are other alternatives.

        No, there is no need to quilt the sashing down. It is fairly narrow and won't shift. Of course, quilting does add that great texture, but also takes time.

        You're in luck, according to my old time chart. It takes about 20 minutes per t-shirt square to quilt and bind your project with this method, so about 4 hours to quilt and bind a 12-square quilt for example. Making your sandwich should only take an hour per quilt.

        Hope this helps. You have plenty of time, and the quilts will come out great. A perfect graduation present.

      • profile image

        anonymous 5 years ago

        PS Love your quilts--they look great!!!

      • profile image

        anonymous 5 years ago

        @QuiltFinger: Thanks so much for such a quick and thorough reply. I have never used paper backed interfacing --just used a light iron on interfacing to keep the Tshirts from stretching. It is not sticky on the other side. So... if you iron on the wonder under to each of the T-shirts, do you sew the sashing on before you take the paper off or just wait until the t-shirts are cooled and remove the paper and then sew on the sashing? Does the sashing need to be "attached" to the batting or is it OK if that is just "loose"?

        I keep thinking that your method is less time consuming than pinning and then marking and and tying the quilt--I usually make 9 ties on each Tshirt and also along the sashing. Does it take you a long time to make the "quilt sandwich" and then stitch in the ditch? I have promised to make 2 quilts as graduation presents and those dates will be here before I know it!

        Thanks for being so generous with your time and talent and for sharing your tips!

      • QuiltFinger profile image
        Author

        QuiltFinger 5 years ago from Tennessee

        @anonymous: HI there M,

        Thanks for your question.

        1. If you've used paper-backed fusible interfacing before, you'll have no problem with Wonder Under. It's a very thin fusible interfacing, that doesn't stand on its own like some of the heavier garment fusibles that don't have a paper backing. If you have another product that use like to stabilize T-shirts, feel free to use that.

        2. Always wait for the shirt to cool down before removing the paper to prevent the fusible from sticking to the paper and pulling away from your fabric. In other words, you don't need to do it right away. In fact, a stack of paper-backed shirt squares is easier to manage.

        3. No need to interface the sashing, if you are using it--as long as it is made from a regular woven fabric, not a stretchy knit like your T-shirts. Interfacing is only needed to prevent the shirts from stretching/distorting.

        4. Yes, I would stitch in the ditch along every square. Warm and Natural can be quilted 10 inches apart, and with the fusible I think I little further is okay.

        For quilting, roll your quilt up like a scroll and sew all of your straight lines. I stop in the corner of each square, backtack and leave the thread in place. Then, I lift the presser foot, move my work a few inches ahead to cross the sashing strip, and insert the needle at the corner of the next square. You could sew right across the sashing pieces if you like. I would stitch in the ditch first and then add any additional straight line quilting, free-motion stippling or whatever else you might like. If you have a walking foot for your sewing machine, that might make your quilting easier, but I don't use one.

        When fusing, just start in the center and work outward, I didn't have a problem with wrinkles. To keep your back nice and smooth, you can tape your backing fabric to the floor, and I always like to smooth it out again after using the spray basting.

        Hope this helps! Good luck with your project! I know you can do it!

        QuiltFinger

      • profile image

        anonymous 5 years ago

        Hi,

        Thanks for your excellent instructions. I have made Tshirt quilts and have hand tied them which has been tedious and time consuming. I would like to try your method with fusing the Top to the batting and then using the adhesive spray to attach the back. I have never used the pellon wonder under. I assume that this is different than regular iron- on interfacing used to stablize the Tshirts. After you iron it on to the Tshirt quares, do you peel the paper off the back right away? Do you need to put interfacing on the sashing too? If you use the sashing do you "stitch in the ditch" along every seam--between Tshits and sashing etc? Is it difficult to do if the quilt is fairly large? I am a bit nervous about making sure that the quilt is smooth and that I don't "iron on" wrinkles etc. Thanks so much for any advice you can give me!

      • J Crane profile image

        J Crane 5 years ago

        Thanks for the guide, i will try to do my own now.

      • QuiltFinger profile image
        Author

        QuiltFinger 5 years ago from Tennessee

        @anonymous: Just to make sure that the fleece won't melt, I would try testing a small swatch using your spare materials and t-shirt scraps. If the fleece can't withstand the heat, you can always tie the two layers together at regular intervals (a rustic quilting alternative) This might be the best bet, because fleece is sort of chunky and harder to quilt without a walking foot for your machine. Congratulations on your project, and good luck!

      • profile image

        anonymous 5 years ago

        This is a great project, and I have my squares finished and ready to sew together. But we live in a warm climate and I don't really want to use the batting between the layers. I am using fleece for the backing, so can I just use the pressing cloth and iron on the fleece side to fuse the layers together?

      • profile image

        anonymous 5 years ago

        I would like to try the t shirt quilt ----- what is a lens?

      • David463 profile image

        David463 5 years ago

        always wanted to try this, now I can, Thanks!! Great lenses!!

      • shewins profile image

        shewins 5 years ago

        That is very cool, what a nice way to save those special T-shirts.

      • Joy Neasley profile image

        Joy Neasley 5 years ago from Nashville, TN

        I am going to have to give this a try! Thanks for the idea and the lens.

      • Pam Irie profile image

        Pam Irie 5 years ago from Land of Aloha

        Fabulous job! I usually make mine with the blocks sewn directly together without a sash. Your tutorial shows both ways of assembling; awesome! (I'm linking your lens to my newest lens on DIY dorm décor.) Thanks!

      • Pam Irie profile image

        Pam Irie 5 years ago from Land of Aloha

        Fabulous job! I usually make mine with the blocks sewn directly together without a sash. Your tutorial shows both ways of assembling; awesome! (I'm linking your lens to my newest lens on DIY dorm decor.) Thanks!

      • Melissa Miotke profile image

        Melissa Miotke 5 years ago from Arizona

        I love how detailed your instructions are. Great lens!

      • profile image

        anonymous 5 years ago

        Wow very interesting and awesome lens. Thanks.

      • WriterJanis2 profile image

        WriterJanis2 5 years ago

        This is such a great idea.

      • vetochemicals profile image

        Cindy 5 years ago from Pittsburgh Pa

        What a great idea for reusing old t-shirts! I'd love to add this to my How to Celebrate Earth Day lens as well as share it with my mom who's also an avid quilter although she's never done t-shirts!! xoxo

      • QuiltFinger profile image
        Author

        QuiltFinger 5 years ago from Tennessee

        @anonymous: Hi there, I'm not sure if I have answered your question yet. I have accidentally fused the quilt to the batting by using an iron that is too hot, but that's not the way it's intended. It's not absolutely necessary to fuse the top to the batting. To save time it would take to baste by hand, I recommend using 505 spray adhesive. It's a little price but it's the best sprays adhesive on the market in my opinion. A few tips, when adhering the back and the top, do it in 1 or 2-foot sections. As the top and backing are applied, make sure to smooth out any wrinkles and stretch the fabric outward.

        As for quilting, I have quilted a queen-sized quilt in a 3/4 size machine, so it is possible even if it isn't fun!! Simply roll the quilt tightly like a scroll and it will fit under the harp (arm). It can be a real B****, but after the center is quilted it gets better!!

        Thanks so much for stopping by, if you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

      • QuiltFinger profile image
        Author

        QuiltFinger 5 years ago from Tennessee

        @anonymous: Hello Denise, Thanks so much for your question. I got it at Fabric.com in the novelty/conversational section. Here's a link to some of their current baseball fabrics. They're not the same, but they are very similar!

        http://www.fabric.com/SearchResults2.aspx?Source=H...

      • profile image

        anonymous 5 years ago

        Just wondering where you purchased the baseball fabric for the sashing? I love it.

      • profile image

        anonymous 5 years ago

        I have a question about fusing batting to quilt front. Do you need pellon material between quilt and batting or can you actually fuse batting to the quilt with the iron?

        Also, I have made a Queen sized quilt. Simple singer sewing machine-how can I uilt before, and everoll it tight enough to get center area under the raised needle?

      • Sher Ritchie profile image

        Sher Ritchie 6 years ago

        I love your lens - this is amazing! I've featured it on mine: http://www.squidoo.com/making-patchwork-super-easy... Thanks for sharing!

      • profile image

        karen-scola 6 years ago

        Love the concept - I've been making tarn and now I know what to do with the pieces left over from the armpit up to the neck! It'll be smaller squares, but most of my logos are breast patches anyway. Thanks for the idea.

      • profile image

        JoshK47 6 years ago

        Popping back in here to bless this awesome lens! :)

      • profile image

        entertainmentev 6 years ago

        My mother-in-law and I are planning to work on these together this summer for Christmas gifts. Great project and gift!

      • profile image

        andrea-terry 6 years ago

        that is a great idea, just the idea I needed to make my son a quilt thank you

      • TTMall profile image

        TTMall 6 years ago

        Thank you for such an informative lens.

      • orange3 lm profile image

        orange3 lm 6 years ago

        This is a great idea to reuse old tshirts that for some reason I don't want to get rid of :)

      • navalava lm profile image

        navalava lm 6 years ago

        Great ideas! You have done great job with this lens! Thank you for sharing your tips with us.

      • profile image

        flipflopju 6 years ago

        Great tips! I have old shirts still and I can't wait to try this out.

      • profile image

        anonymous 6 years ago

        great idea thanks for sharing

      • Michey LM profile image

        Michey LM 6 years ago

        Practical lens, you are a handy person.

        Regards

      • QuiltFinger profile image
        Author

        QuiltFinger 6 years ago from Tennessee

        @anonymous: Hello Lee, thanks for your comment. I have used polyester tees, or at least part cotton/poly. It can be tricky. I definitely prefer using 100% cotton tees. Typically, you need to use the hottest setting on your iron in order to fuse the interfacing. The problem with poly fabrics is that the synthetic materials can melt leaving an ugly burned mark or even a hole if it melts all the way through. To avoid this, you can try fusing the pieces with a wet pressing cloth that will release steam and help fuse the webbing. As an alternative, you could also try sew-in interfacing if you don't want to take a chance ruining your jerseys. I have never tried using sew-in interfacing with this project, but imagine it would work if you hooked the two layers together with a zig-zag stitch or you could find an darning foot for your sewing machine and do a meandering stipple stitch to quilt your quilt or simply connect the two layers.

        **Also, it just occurred to me that hockey and sports jerseys aren't stretchy like regular T-shirts, so you may not need interfacing to stabilize the fabric at all! Hope this helps!

      • profile image

        anonymous 6 years ago

        Have you ever used soccer or hockey jerseys made from polyester? If so can you use the same interfacing? any hints would be much appreciated/ Great tutorial!

      • GonnaFly profile image

        Jeanette 6 years ago from Australia

        What a great idea!

      • hlkljgk profile image

        hlkljgk 6 years ago from Western Mass

        i wish i'd saved more t-shirts. Congratulations on being featured on the 50 Crafts I Want To Try MonsterBoard!

      • QuiltFinger profile image
        Author

        QuiltFinger 6 years ago from Tennessee

        @anonymous: Hi Mari, you'll have to calculate the size of your squares and borders based on the amount of batting you have. I like to draw a diagram showing the measurements, so it's easier for me to visualize. For the Pellon, you may do either. I find it works best to use your iron on the back (the paper side) and do a mild touch up on the front of the t-shirt to make sure there aren't any bubbles. Some tees are printed with that rubberized plastisol ink, which can get stuck on the bottom of your iron or at least slow the iron down, so it doesn't glide nicely. Hope this helps and good luck!!

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        anonymous 6 years ago

        I am about to start my quilt, and just buying a few last items. Following your instructions will I still have room to make a border around the entire quilt, even after I put a border around each square? Also, when I do the pellon, do I iron on the back or the front of the shirt? I've seen both....

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        Ann 6 years ago from Yorkshire, England

        that is amazing - angel blessed and featured on my road trip to crafts lens

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        sdakin 6 years ago

        This is BY FAR one of the best T-shirt quilt tutorials that I've seen. I've gathered all of the t-shirts to make one, but that's as far as I've gotten so far. =) Thanks for this great lens!

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        JoshK47 6 years ago

        Great use for old t-shirts. Awesome stuff!

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        rasisonia lm 6 years ago

        wow.. I want to Make a T-Shirt Quilt.. thank for sharing this tips..

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        dellgirl 6 years ago

        Wonderful lens itâs really very unique. I SUPERLIKED it! I love sewing and quilting too, haven't done it in a long time though.

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        Wanda Fitzgerald 6 years ago from Central Florida

        I've never seen this technique before. Very personalized and unique. Added to the squidoo quilting angel lens.

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        Renaissance Woman 7 years ago from Colorado

        This would be a great way to display t-shirts from races (running). A person can only wear so many shirts. Nicely done!

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        Colorfulscene 7 years ago

        Yes!! I started a lens- addicted to t shirts.... this is a GREAT way to preserve those favorites!

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        Indigo Janson 8 years ago from UK

        Really clever idea, and the finished result is fantastic!

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        QuiltFinger 8 years ago from Tennessee

        @nevergiveupgirl: What a wonderful idea ;) It's always fun to begin a new project. Thanks so much for your comments.

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        nevergiveupgirl 8 years ago

        Thank you so much for such clear tutorial. It just make me jump on to the sewing machine and start a project.

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        QuiltFinger 8 years ago from Tennessee

        @Nochipra: There's no quilting police, so you can do it anyway you want. Thanks so much for your comment.

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        QuiltFinger 8 years ago from Tennessee

        @poutine: Thanks so much, Poutine. I really like the way it ties together the look. Of course sewing the shirts together is just fine too.

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        poutine 8 years ago

        I love the way you put that strip around the t-shirts graphics.

        Cool idea! Never seen one like this before.

        Poutine

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        Nochipra 8 years ago

        Very nice! Never seen one like this before!

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        QuiltFinger 8 years ago from Tennessee

        @junecampbell: Thanks so much, Nightcats. I would love to hear some feedback from a fellow sewer....

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        June Campbell 8 years ago from North Vancouver, BC, Canada

        Beautiful! I don't sew but I'm sending this lens to someone who does. Five stars.

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        QuiltFinger 8 years ago from Tennessee

        @Sylvestermouse: Thank you so much Sylvestermouse! I think the trick is to wait until they go to college, than you can tell which shirts they are leaving behind. ;)

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        Cynthia Sylvestermouse 8 years ago from United States

        This is totally awesome! Great instructions and photos. I love the idea. Wonder if my son would miss his t-shirts:) Seriously, I think it is a marvelous way to capture great memories. Angel Blessed and added to my Squid Angel Mouse Tracks lens.

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