Learn How to Make a T-Shirt Quilt

A step-by-step tutorial for turning old tees into a quilt

Hello everyone. Welcome to my "How to Make a T-shirt Quilt" page where you'll find step-by-step instructions with photos and sewing tips. Making a t-shirt quilt is an awesome way to re-purpose all of those old t-shirts from sports, school, bands and vacations and turn them into an unforgettable and precious gift for a family member or friend. I'll show you everything you need to know, from cutting and stabilizing shirt designs to quilting and binding your project.

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tshirt quilt block
tshirt quilt block

Thoughts on Making a Quilt

What You Need to Know About Making a T-shirt Quilt

Most quilts are made from simple geometric shapes, squares, rectangles, and triangles that are sewed together with straight lines, (and I know you all can sew in straight line!) In many ways quilts are easier than clothing and other craft projects the require a precise fit. Just think of a quilt as one big rectangle made up of many little rectangles.

This project requires a little sewing experience. All you need is a bunch of t-shirts, fabric, batting, and a little time and patience. If you have questions or run into trouble along the way, I'm here to help. By the way, this tutorial focuses on how to make a tshirt quilt with sashing, but you can use these instructions to make your own pattern too.

The projects featured on this page were created by me for customers. You'll see school and sports shirts, tees from vacations and more. It's really special and rewarding to see so many parts of a person's life and interests and then create an everlasting item that encapsulates an era or a person.

*All photos and graphics featured on this page were created or taken by me.

Materials and Supplies - Items needed to make a T-shirt quilt

For one t-shirt quilt. You will need:


T-Shirts, anywhere from 12-20. Twelve tees makes a lap quilt, 42x60. Use 20 (five rows of four) or 24 (six rows of four) to make a large lap quilt or twin-sized quilt respectively.

1 Twin Size package of quilt batting. I use Warm and Natural. Craft stores, like Jo-Ann's, have a good selection of batting available in packages and by the yard.

Backing fabric. A regular flat sheet will work for this, or you can purchase quilt backing which is sold on 108" wide bolts. You can also use regular-width fabric and sew pieces together if necessary. For a lap-size quilt with 12 tees, you'll need two yards of 44-inch wide fabric.

Several 2-Yard Packages of Pellon Wonder-Under fusible interfacing, depending on how many quilts you're interfacing. Usually runs $5 per package. Fusible interfacing is an iron-on web of nylon-like material that will stabilize the jersey tees. Wonder-Under comes with a non-stick paper backing that is peeled off after it's applied.

Cotton thread. I use Star brand cotton quilting thread by Coates & Clark. About $5 for a large spool.

Tools - Things to help you make a beautiful T-shirt quilt.

  • An iron. The iron I use is the cheapest unbranded model available from Target. The only requirement is that it must get very hot.
  • Scissors or a rotary cutter
  • Marking tools, lead pencil, tailors chalk, etc.,
  • Sewing pins
  • Large ruler or tape measure.
  • Lightweight cardboard to make a square template (optional) .This is great if you don't have a large ruler or cutting mat.Tip: Cereal boxes are made with the perfect type of cardboard!
  • Extension cord

t-shirt quilt squares
t-shirt quilt squares

Square It Up

Stabilize your t shirt and cut squares.

The first step is to cut up your shirts, centering a square around the graphic. Measure your shirts, making sure there is approximately 1/2 inch on each edge of the largest graphic. Usually a 13-14 inch square will work. Everyone has their own method, and this is what works for me. Align your ruler so it is parallel with the the top of the logo and the edge is close to the bottom of the collar. See photo.

Make a straight cut across the chest from shoulder to shoulder seam. By making the first cut at the top, we are sure the design is aligned at 90 degrees and it gives us a good foundation to make the other cuts and measurements. Make sure the center of the design is aligned with the center of the square and there is an even space on each edge. Make two notches on the top edge, marking the width of your block. Make one cut down the left edge of the shirt, perpendicular from tee top.

Cutting and Adding the Interfacing

This will give you one 90-degree corner to align with your squares of fusible interfacing. Before you iron on the interfacing make sure there are not any deep wrinkles or creases, which might become permanent when fused.

1. Cut the fusible interfacing in 14-inch squares (You can cut five 14-inch squares from a 2-yard roll of interfacing.)

2. Gently place you t-shirt on the ironing board, making sure it is neither distorted or stretched.

3. Align the interfacing with the two straight edges of your t-shirt and the notch. (See Photo) Fuse this side first to maintain alignment.

4. Set your iron to Medium, which might also be the Wool/Silk Setting or II mark to fuse. Use a downward pushing motion instead of gliding. Keep iron on the fabric for about 10 seconds to fuse.

Iron on the interfacing with a smooth left-to-right motion starting at the top and working down. Make sure the corners are well heated, since this is where you will start peeling off the backing paper. There are instructions on the package of Interfacing in you are ever in doubt of the process. Once you have the interfacing attached to the shirt square off the edges of each block measures 14" inches square, or what ever size you are using. There process of fusing and squaring off 20 shirts takes about 3 to 3 and a half hours and can be completed in one afternoon.

Tip: Keep the paper backing on until you assemble the blocks. Always allow the fabric piece to cool before peeling off the paper. If you have trouble with the interfacing lifting up, iron down the corners again to make sure that the interfacing is adhered. Put the paper backings aside for use later in the assembly process.

What About Sweatshirts? - How to Incorporate Sweatshirts in a Tshirt Quilt

stablishing tshirts and sweatshirts for quilts
stablishing tshirts and sweatshirts for quilts

Sometimes it happens. You have a favorite shirt that you really want to include, but it's made from a thick, fleecy sweatshirt material. Well, don't fret. You can include it too, if you like. To minimize extra bulk, don't interface the whole shirt front. Just apply a frame of 1.5-inch interfacing strips to stabilize the edges. Keep your strips 1/4-inch from the outside edge to keep the seam allowances as thin as possible. Eureka! It's stable. If desired, apply spray starch to the shirt before cutting and applying the adhesive. It's up to you whether you'd like to complete that step first.

Assembly Options

Instructions for assembling your t-shirt quilt.

The easiest way to assemble your t-shirt quilt is to sew the blocks to each other. Sew blocks together into rows, trim making sure the top and bottom are parallel, and attach rows horizontally.

The second option is to add sashing. Sashing is like a border around each t-shirt square. It's a great way to add size to your quilt, tie together a theme, or tone down a busy quilt. Don't worry, sashing is easier than it looks!

For the example I used 2 inch wide sashing strips for a finished width of 1.5 inches. Cut sashing and borders from fabric running parallel to the selvage. This direction has the least amount of stretch so it will lie flat and won't flare out or ruffle.

Cut sashing strips a little bit longer than your blocks. Pin sashing and tee right sides together, aligning the edges at one side and letting the sashing hanging off the other end. Assemble all of the rows with vertical sashing. Make sure the edges are parallel and pin together rows with horizontal sashing.

Cornerstones are optional accents for the sashing intersections.

For the example the sashing strips are 2" wide and the cornerstone blocks are 2" square.

Tip: As you assemble your rows, you'll need to iron the seam allowances flat. Lay several sheets of the paper backing on your ironing board, and iron the seam allowances toward the tees. Your tees will stick to the release paper instead of your ironing board!

Put the rows aside and allow to cool before removing the paper again.

Curb Quilting Errors

Mistakes, big or small, happen to the best of us, especially when you're dealing with stretching t-shirts. I prefer to call them challenges. In this case, the logo was a little bit distorted. It was also the longest design of all the shirts, which means that I cut all the blocks to this size. However, trouble struck when I cut the edge a little to close, and the design looked like it would be cut off when I sewed the pieces together. Here's the remedy.

Sew guide stitches at the edge of the design. Use a large basting-size stitch. Now, pin your block to the sashing strips and sew from the t-shirt side. You will follow the guideline, keeping your new stitch line just inside the first row of stitches. Flip your project over and admire your perfectly placed seam!

Quilt Sandwich - Layer the backing, batting, and top.

t-shirt quilt polo shirt
t-shirt quilt polo shirt

Before you "quilt" your quilt, the backing, batting, and top, much be secured together in a quilt sandwich. The first step is to fuse the quilt top to the batting. Lay you batting on the floor. Smooth it out from the center to the edges. Lay your top on the batting and smooth it out in the same way. Get your iron and an extension cord. Turn your iron to the wool or cotton setting. Use a muslin pressing if necessary to prevent the plastisol t-shirt ink from melting onto the iron. Fuse each block to the batting. Try not to distort the fabric with the iron. Press down and hold the iron there for a few seconds. (Use a downward pressing motion rather than gliding side-to-side) Fuse the whole top moving from the center out to each corner. NOTE: Use a dry iron with no steam whenever you're working with the fusible.

There are several ways to attach you backing to the sandwich.

1. I prefer to use spray adhesive because it's so fast. My favorite brand is 505 Spray and Fix by J T Trading, but Elmer's Spray Adhesive also works. Elmer's is a fraction of the price and it's available drugstores and grocery stores. Lay your batting on the floor with the t-shirts facing the ground. Lay your backing on top with the right side facing up. Peel back the backing to the midpoint and spray the fabric in 12-15 inch increments. Lay the backing on and smooth it out, peel the backing up again and repeat until the backing is attached. Smooth the back again to prevent bubbles and bagginess.

2. Big safety pins are also a good alternative. They are fast and work well. It's important to check the edges during the quilting to make sure the safety pins aren't bunching up the fabric. You may need to smooth out the back re-pin the edges and corners.

3. The old school way to baste a quilt is to use a needle and thread, taking long stitches that can easily be removed. This works fine, but it's takes an unforgettable amount of time! Only use if none of the other options are feasible.

After your sandwich is together, you're ready to quilt!

Quilting Your Tees

quilted t-shirt quilt
quilted t-shirt quilt

T-Shirt Quilt Tip!

Use ballpoint or Jersey needles when piecing and quilting t-shirt quilts. These needles have a wider/fatter tip that pokes through knitted fabrics without tearing or ripping the fibers. I like Schmetz or Organ ballpoints size 70/10 or 75/12.

For the quilting, you have several options.

Option 1: If you want to keep it simple, stitch along the seams only. This is called "stitch-in-the ditch." Using the Warm and Natural brand batting allows you to quilt up to 10 inch apart. When you're stitching in the ditch you can feel pressure as the needle pushes against the fabric, like a little wall, that allows you to stitch right on the seam so the stitching is almost hidden . Don't worry if your swerve a little, no one is going to look that close. Use your ballpoint needle to protect the jersey fabric and provide a nice, clean finish.

Option 2: You can tie your quilt, if you're most comfortable with that. This provides a relatively quick finish if you don't want to use your machine. You can find instructions here: How to Tie a Quilt

Option 3: You could also do free-motion quilting, also called "stippling," if your comfortable with that. For this method, you'll need a sewing machine with droppable feed dogs and a free motion quilting foot.

When quilting, set your stitch size to approximately 3 mm (unless doing free-motion.) Roll your quilt up like a scroll, so it will fit under the machine. Always start in the the middle and move out to the sides.

Once you're finished quilting, square off the quilt. Check out my next lens, How to Bind a Quilt, where I'll show you how to make binding and how to attach it neatly and quickly. You can also click the link below to download my PDF tutorial. All you need to do is sign up for a free account on

If you have a question about the project, I will answer it here. Feel free to share pictures of your finished creations and experiences.

© 2010 QuiltFinger

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Share Your Questions and Comments - Are You Making a T-Shirt Quilt? 70 comments

Sylvestermouse profile image

Sylvestermouse 6 years ago from United States

This is totally awesome! Great instructions and photos. I love the idea. Wonder if my son would miss his t-shirts:) Seriously, I think it is a marvelous way to capture great memories. Angel Blessed and added to my Squid Angel Mouse Tracks lens.

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 6 years ago from Tennessee Author

@Sylvestermouse: Thank you so much Sylvestermouse! I think the trick is to wait until they go to college, than you can tell which shirts they are leaving behind. ;)

junecampbell profile image

junecampbell 6 years ago from North Vancouver, BC, Canada

Beautiful! I don't sew but I'm sending this lens to someone who does. Five stars.

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 6 years ago from Tennessee Author

@junecampbell: Thanks so much, Nightcats. I would love to hear some feedback from a fellow sewer....

Nochipra profile image

Nochipra 6 years ago

Very nice! Never seen one like this before!

poutine 6 years ago

I love the way you put that strip around the t-shirts graphics.

Cool idea! Never seen one like this before.


QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 6 years ago from Tennessee Author

@poutine: Thanks so much, Poutine. I really like the way it ties together the look. Of course sewing the shirts together is just fine too.

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 6 years ago from Tennessee Author

@Nochipra: There's no quilting police, so you can do it anyway you want. Thanks so much for your comment.

nevergiveupgirl 6 years ago

Thank you so much for such clear tutorial. It just make me jump on to the sewing machine and start a project.

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 6 years ago from Tennessee Author

@nevergiveupgirl: What a wonderful idea ;) It's always fun to begin a new project. Thanks so much for your comments.

indigoj profile image

indigoj 6 years ago from UK

Really clever idea, and the finished result is fantastic!

Colorfulscene 5 years ago

Yes!! I started a lens- addicted to t shirts.... this is a GREAT way to preserve those favorites!

Diana Wenzel profile image

Diana Wenzel 5 years ago from Colorado

This would be a great way to display t-shirts from races (running). A person can only wear so many shirts. Nicely done!

Charmcrazey profile image

Charmcrazey 5 years ago from Central Florida

I've never seen this technique before. Very personalized and unique. Added to the squidoo quilting angel lens.

dellgirl 5 years ago

Wonderful lens itâs really very unique. I SUPERLIKED it! I love sewing and quilting too, haven't done it in a long time though.

rasisonia lm profile image

rasisonia lm 5 years ago

wow.. I want to Make a T-Shirt Quilt.. thank for sharing this tips..

JoshK47 5 years ago

Great use for old t-shirts. Awesome stuff!

sdakin profile image

sdakin 5 years ago

This is BY FAR one of the best T-shirt quilt tutorials that I've seen. I've gathered all of the t-shirts to make one, but that's as far as I've gotten so far. =) Thanks for this great lens!

annieangel1 profile image

annieangel1 5 years ago from Yorkshire, England

that is amazing - angel blessed and featured on my road trip to crafts lens

anonymous 5 years ago

I am about to start my quilt, and just buying a few last items. Following your instructions will I still have room to make a border around the entire quilt, even after I put a border around each square? Also, when I do the pellon, do I iron on the back or the front of the shirt? I've seen both....

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 5 years ago from Tennessee Author

@anonymous: Hi Mari, you'll have to calculate the size of your squares and borders based on the amount of batting you have. I like to draw a diagram showing the measurements, so it's easier for me to visualize. For the Pellon, you may do either. I find it works best to use your iron on the back (the paper side) and do a mild touch up on the front of the t-shirt to make sure there aren't any bubbles. Some tees are printed with that rubberized plastisol ink, which can get stuck on the bottom of your iron or at least slow the iron down, so it doesn't glide nicely. Hope this helps and good luck!!

hlkljgk profile image

hlkljgk 5 years ago from Western Mass

i wish i'd saved more t-shirts. Congratulations on being featured on the 50 Crafts I Want To Try MonsterBoard!

GonnaFly profile image

GonnaFly 5 years ago from Australia

What a great idea!

anonymous 5 years ago

Have you ever used soccer or hockey jerseys made from polyester? If so can you use the same interfacing? any hints would be much appreciated/ Great tutorial!

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 5 years ago from Tennessee Author

@anonymous: Hello Lee, thanks for your comment. I have used polyester tees, or at least part cotton/poly. It can be tricky. I definitely prefer using 100% cotton tees. Typically, you need to use the hottest setting on your iron in order to fuse the interfacing. The problem with poly fabrics is that the synthetic materials can melt leaving an ugly burned mark or even a hole if it melts all the way through. To avoid this, you can try fusing the pieces with a wet pressing cloth that will release steam and help fuse the webbing. As an alternative, you could also try sew-in interfacing if you don't want to take a chance ruining your jerseys. I have never tried using sew-in interfacing with this project, but imagine it would work if you hooked the two layers together with a zig-zag stitch or you could find an darning foot for your sewing machine and do a meandering stipple stitch to quilt your quilt or simply connect the two layers.

**Also, it just occurred to me that hockey and sports jerseys aren't stretchy like regular T-shirts, so you may not need interfacing to stabilize the fabric at all! Hope this helps!

Michey LM profile image

Michey LM 4 years ago

Practical lens, you are a handy person.


anonymous 4 years ago

great idea thanks for sharing

flipflopju 4 years ago

Great tips! I have old shirts still and I can't wait to try this out.

navalava lm profile image

navalava lm 4 years ago

Great ideas! You have done great job with this lens! Thank you for sharing your tips with us.

orange3 lm profile image

orange3 lm 4 years ago

This is a great idea to reuse old tshirts that for some reason I don't want to get rid of :)

TTMall profile image

TTMall 4 years ago

Thank you for such an informative lens.

andrea-terry 4 years ago

that is a great idea, just the idea I needed to make my son a quilt thank you

entertainmentev profile image

entertainmentev 4 years ago

My mother-in-law and I are planning to work on these together this summer for Christmas gifts. Great project and gift!

JoshK47 4 years ago

Popping back in here to bless this awesome lens! :)

karen-scola 4 years ago

Love the concept - I've been making tarn and now I know what to do with the pieces left over from the armpit up to the neck! It'll be smaller squares, but most of my logos are breast patches anyway. Thanks for the idea.

Sher Ritchie profile image

Sher Ritchie 4 years ago

I love your lens - this is amazing! I've featured it on mine: Thanks for sharing!

anonymous 4 years ago

I have a question about fusing batting to quilt front. Do you need pellon material between quilt and batting or can you actually fuse batting to the quilt with the iron?

Also, I have made a Queen sized quilt. Simple singer sewing machine-how can I uilt before, and everoll it tight enough to get center area under the raised needle?

anonymous 4 years ago

Just wondering where you purchased the baseball fabric for the sashing? I love it.

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 4 years ago from Tennessee Author

@anonymous: Hello Denise, Thanks so much for your question. I got it at in the novelty/conversational section. Here's a link to some of their current baseball fabrics. They're not the same, but they are very similar!

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 4 years ago from Tennessee Author

@anonymous: Hi there, I'm not sure if I have answered your question yet. I have accidentally fused the quilt to the batting by using an iron that is too hot, but that's not the way it's intended. It's not absolutely necessary to fuse the top to the batting. To save time it would take to baste by hand, I recommend using 505 spray adhesive. It's a little price but it's the best sprays adhesive on the market in my opinion. A few tips, when adhering the back and the top, do it in 1 or 2-foot sections. As the top and backing are applied, make sure to smooth out any wrinkles and stretch the fabric outward.

As for quilting, I have quilted a queen-sized quilt in a 3/4 size machine, so it is possible even if it isn't fun!! Simply roll the quilt tightly like a scroll and it will fit under the harp (arm). It can be a real B****, but after the center is quilted it gets better!!

Thanks so much for stopping by, if you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

vetochemicals profile image

vetochemicals 4 years ago from Pittsburgh Pa

What a great idea for reusing old t-shirts! I'd love to add this to my How to Celebrate Earth Day lens as well as share it with my mom who's also an avid quilter although she's never done t-shirts!! xoxo

WriterJanis2 profile image

WriterJanis2 4 years ago

This is such a great idea.

anonymous 4 years ago

Wow very interesting and awesome lens. Thanks.

Melissa Miotke profile image

Melissa Miotke 4 years ago from Arizona

I love how detailed your instructions are. Great lens!

Pam Irie profile image

Pam Irie 4 years ago from Land of Aloha

Fabulous job! I usually make mine with the blocks sewn directly together without a sash. Your tutorial shows both ways of assembling; awesome! (I'm linking your lens to my newest lens on DIY dorm décor.) Thanks!

Joy Neasley profile image

Joy Neasley 4 years ago from Nashville, TN

I am going to have to give this a try! Thanks for the idea and the lens.

shewins profile image

shewins 3 years ago

That is very cool, what a nice way to save those special T-shirts.

David463 profile image

David463 3 years ago

always wanted to try this, now I can, Thanks!! Great lenses!!

anonymous 3 years ago

I would like to try the t shirt quilt ----- what is a lens?

anonymous 3 years ago

This is a great project, and I have my squares finished and ready to sew together. But we live in a warm climate and I don't really want to use the batting between the layers. I am using fleece for the backing, so can I just use the pressing cloth and iron on the fleece side to fuse the layers together?

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 3 years ago from Tennessee Author

@anonymous: Just to make sure that the fleece won't melt, I would try testing a small swatch using your spare materials and t-shirt scraps. If the fleece can't withstand the heat, you can always tie the two layers together at regular intervals (a rustic quilting alternative) This might be the best bet, because fleece is sort of chunky and harder to quilt without a walking foot for your machine. Congratulations on your project, and good luck!

J Crane profile image

J Crane 3 years ago

Thanks for the guide, i will try to do my own now.

anonymous 3 years ago


Thanks for your excellent instructions. I have made Tshirt quilts and have hand tied them which has been tedious and time consuming. I would like to try your method with fusing the Top to the batting and then using the adhesive spray to attach the back. I have never used the pellon wonder under. I assume that this is different than regular iron- on interfacing used to stablize the Tshirts. After you iron it on to the Tshirt quares, do you peel the paper off the back right away? Do you need to put interfacing on the sashing too? If you use the sashing do you "stitch in the ditch" along every seam--between Tshits and sashing etc? Is it difficult to do if the quilt is fairly large? I am a bit nervous about making sure that the quilt is smooth and that I don't "iron on" wrinkles etc. Thanks so much for any advice you can give me!

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 3 years ago from Tennessee Author

@anonymous: HI there M,

Thanks for your question.

1. If you've used paper-backed fusible interfacing before, you'll have no problem with Wonder Under. It's a very thin fusible interfacing, that doesn't stand on its own like some of the heavier garment fusibles that don't have a paper backing. If you have another product that use like to stabilize T-shirts, feel free to use that.

2. Always wait for the shirt to cool down before removing the paper to prevent the fusible from sticking to the paper and pulling away from your fabric. In other words, you don't need to do it right away. In fact, a stack of paper-backed shirt squares is easier to manage.

3. No need to interface the sashing, if you are using it--as long as it is made from a regular woven fabric, not a stretchy knit like your T-shirts. Interfacing is only needed to prevent the shirts from stretching/distorting.

4. Yes, I would stitch in the ditch along every square. Warm and Natural can be quilted 10 inches apart, and with the fusible I think I little further is okay.

For quilting, roll your quilt up like a scroll and sew all of your straight lines. I stop in the corner of each square, backtack and leave the thread in place. Then, I lift the presser foot, move my work a few inches ahead to cross the sashing strip, and insert the needle at the corner of the next square. You could sew right across the sashing pieces if you like. I would stitch in the ditch first and then add any additional straight line quilting, free-motion stippling or whatever else you might like. If you have a walking foot for your sewing machine, that might make your quilting easier, but I don't use one.

When fusing, just start in the center and work outward, I didn't have a problem with wrinkles. To keep your back nice and smooth, you can tape your backing fabric to the floor, and I always like to smooth it out again after using the spray basting.

Hope this helps! Good luck with your project! I know you can do it!


anonymous 3 years ago

@QuiltFinger: Thanks so much for such a quick and thorough reply. I have never used paper backed interfacing --just used a light iron on interfacing to keep the Tshirts from stretching. It is not sticky on the other side. So... if you iron on the wonder under to each of the T-shirts, do you sew the sashing on before you take the paper off or just wait until the t-shirts are cooled and remove the paper and then sew on the sashing? Does the sashing need to be "attached" to the batting or is it OK if that is just "loose"?

I keep thinking that your method is less time consuming than pinning and then marking and and tying the quilt--I usually make 9 ties on each Tshirt and also along the sashing. Does it take you a long time to make the "quilt sandwich" and then stitch in the ditch? I have promised to make 2 quilts as graduation presents and those dates will be here before I know it!

Thanks for being so generous with your time and talent and for sharing your tips!

anonymous 3 years ago

PS Love your quilts--they look great!!!

anonymous 3 years ago

@anonymous: Sorry---one more thing--do you have to order wonder under. They do not have it ay my local store?

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 3 years ago from Tennessee Author

@anonymous: You're welcome! I'm happy to share. In fact, I think it might be my calling.

So, Wonder Under is different from other fusibles, because both sides can adhere to the fabric once the paper backing is removed. Peel off the paper once the shirts are cool... or before you pin your pieces together. I don't have a lot of great craft stores near by house, so I do order Wonder Under. Sellers have it on Ebay and a few on Amazon. Heat-N-Bond Lite by Thermoweb is a similar product and I'm sure there are other alternatives.

No, there is no need to quilt the sashing down. It is fairly narrow and won't shift. Of course, quilting does add that great texture, but also takes time.

You're in luck, according to my old time chart. It takes about 20 minutes per t-shirt square to quilt and bind your project with this method, so about 4 hours to quilt and bind a 12-square quilt for example. Making your sandwich should only take an hour per quilt.

Hope this helps. You have plenty of time, and the quilts will come out great. A perfect graduation present.

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 3 years ago from Tennessee Author

@anonymous: Thank you for the compliment! :D

anonymous 3 years ago

@QuiltFinger: Thanks so very much. I need to collect the T-shirts and get started!! I am excited about my projects!

anonymous 3 years ago

Such clear instructions! Thank you! Pinning!

Gypzeerose profile image

Gypzeerose 3 years ago

I love your lens! Great instructions, anyone could do this.

SavioC profile image

SavioC 3 years ago

I should have seen this lens a month back. My wife and me made a quilt for our little niece on her first birthday with her snaps (12 of them) . It was our first attempt in doing it but I guess this lens would have helped a lot.

Nice one. Your instructions are very well put.

Thank You.

shadowfast7 profile image

shadowfast7 2 years ago

wish i could learn but it looks so difficult! :(

shellys-space profile image

shellys-space 2 years ago from Midwest U.S.A.

Making a quilt is a great way to use the T-shirts my son outgrows!

Barb 2 years ago

Thank you so much for the t-shirt quilt pattern. My grandson has tons of bowling t-shirts, he's in college now, thought I would make him a memory quilt using his old high school shirts.

SB 18 months ago

Thank you for this awesome tutorial. Question: can you use polo shirts with the t shirts?

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QuiltFinger 18 months ago from Tennessee Author

Yes, absolutely. I have. Just be careful with the heat/iron if they aren't 100% cotton. Also, you may need to stitch closed the button front, and trim away a bit of the fabric from the back layer--(the one with the buttons) to reduce bulk. Let me know if this makes sense!

GNB 6 months ago

I have 100%polyester soccer jerseys n have logos that might melt if I must fuse. Which interfacing is best? Do I have to baste it to a cotton fabric then to interfacing. I'm doing this for first time using poly shirts.

Jacquelina 3 months ago

Hello & thank you ! I need help & have no point of reference....I'm using leftover tee shirts in many different color blocks sewn together for the sides. Do I sew these 3 inch wide strips with the interfacing up.....I've never finished a quilt & I do not want to have to use seam . I believe is for the binding. Thank you for any & all comments & help, guidance.

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