How to Bind a Quilt

Instructions for making and attaching perfect quilt binding

Finishing off the edges and corners is the all-important final step when completing any quilt. Don't despair, binding a quilt is easier than it looks. I'll show you how to make and attach continuous binding strips for neatly mitered corners every time. You'll also learn how to make bias tape binding and cross-grain strips.

The binding is not only important for keeping the quilt together. It can provide a visual tie in or become a brightly colored accent piece. Don't shy away from gaudy prints or stripes, these fabrics have a charming effect when cut into narrow pieces. Today, there are a ton of tools on market, ready-made packages, bias tape makers and all types of gadgets of doodads for cutting even strips. However, the method I use requires only the simplest sewing tools.

With these instructions you can make quilt binding, in any width and from any fabric - - from satin to seersucker. The method I'm showing you is called "continuous strip" because the binding cut out in one, long spiraling piece. I almost always make double-fold strips because it is the most durable and also the easiest type to make. There are several steps to learn, but once you have the order mastered, it will give you freedom to experiment with finishes in any width, color or fabric. How awesome is that! Read more to learn how to bind your quilt.



P.S. A complete PDF of this information is available through for $2. This is the new and improved version.

Find My Binding Guide on Craftsy
Find My Binding Guide on Craftsy

Materials and Tools

To make binding you will need:

1 Square piece of fabric


Marking tool (tailors chalk or pencil)




Cutting Mat (optional)

Rotary Cutter (optional)

Cardboard for storage (optional)

A lot of these tools are optional, but if you are willing to make invest in some professional tools, they will make the process easier and they will come in handy for future projects.

Baby Quilt Binding

Baby Quilt Binding
Baby Quilt Binding

How to Caluculate Quilt Binding Length Requirements

To calculate the length of binding required, simply determine the perimeter by adding the short and long sides together and multiplying by two. Then, add 12 inches to compensate for the corners and ends.

Here are a few common sizes.

One 36-inch square = 575 inches

A 24-inch squares = 240 inches

An 18-inch square = 144 inches

Instructions for Making Continuous Strip Quilt Binding

Mark and measure a square piece of fabric by aligning the edges of the selvage and making a straight cut.

Then, fold the fabric in half from corner to corner, like a bandana.

Next, fold the tip of the square so it meets the mid-point of the hypotenuse.

The folded fabric should look like this.

Then, mark the fabric and cut along the line between the tip to the folded edges.

This cut creates two equal half-square triangles.

Pin and sew the triangles along one of the short straight sides so the tips hang downward.

Next, pull the back tab to the front and guide the front tab to the back of the unit. These tabs will form your spiral seam.

Now, for the tricky part. Pin the front tab to the edge of the other triangle, beginning at the seam. Pin along the seam, which wraps around the back of the unit.

Leave a 2.5 inch offset to make 2.25-inch strips. This is the most important step. Always add .25 inches more than the desired width of your strips to compensate for the spiral seam allowance. (Don't ask how I know this.)

Once you have your spiraling tube, measure and mark parallel lines equal to the binding width (2.25 inches for example.) These lines should be at a slight angle, not straight up and down. Continue marking the back of the unit, so the cutting lines wrap around and meet up.

When cutting the circular strips, I like to put my arm through the tube and gently lift and twist the fabric as I cut. This prevents me from accidentally sniping the second layer of fabric.

Once you have your strip, fold the fabric in half and iron to make your double-fold or French-fold strips. Wrap the fabric around a plastic sheet or a piece of cardboard to keep everything organized and tangle free.

There you have it, continuous-strip double-fold bias tape binding that you can make in any fabric and any color.

Continuous Strip Quilt Binding - My Video Tutorial

If you have a large quilt to bind or just want a pile of binding to have on hand, this is the method to use. I'll show you all the steps in this short video tutorial.

Check out my video tutorial to master this technique or see my instructions in action!

Cross-Grain and Bias Tape Binding

Here you'll find instructions for making two other kinds of binding. I like cross-grain strips for smaller projects and wall hangings. Bias tape is ideal for all projects, especially those with curved or scalloped edges. Check out my video tutorial to learn these two methods along with tips for joining multiple strips.

How to Make Cross-Grain Binding

1. Start with a half yard of fabric with the selvages on.

2. Fold the fabric in half so that the selvages together.

3. Make another fold if necessary to ensure that the fabric fits on your cutting mat.

4. Going from the folded edge to the selvage edge, cut binding strips to the desired width.

I like to use 2.25" strips.

5. Cut off the selvage ends.

6. Join multiple strips together and trim seam allowances.

7. Take binding strips to your ironing board, fold in half and press.

How to Make Bias Tape Binding

1. Measure a cut a square of fabric that's at least 18 inches on a side.

2. Fold the square in half with two tips together.

3. Fold the square in quarters by folding opposite tips together.

4. Make your first cut along the folded edge. NOTE: Since the fabric is already doubled, your first cut will be half the width. All of the other cuts should equal the full width of your binding.

5. Join multiple strips together and trim seam allowances.

6. Take binding strips to your ironing board, fold in half and press.

Learn how to cut and make bias and cross-grain strips in my quick video tutorial.

Are Your Quilt Binding Confident?

How confident are you with your quilt binding skills?

  • uh . . confidence . . . Not so much.
  • I'm getting better, so, yes, I AM confident!
  • I'm on my way to mad skills. Nothing can shake my quilt binding confidence!
  • I'm a pro. I can bind a quilt in my sleep, confidence or not!
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Other Binding Options - How to Join Binding Strips

Sometimes you don't need a mile and a half of binding to complete your project and it's more practical to cut and join single strips. To do this, cut out a series of 2.25 inch strips or your desired width. Join the strips by overlapping the tails so they are perpendicular. Mark the diagonal line between the corners of the intersection, and stitch. Make sure your diagonal line goes in the right direction, otherwise your strips won't layout flat. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

Once your strips are joined, trim the excess fabric and press the seam open. If you're binding an oval, round or curved project, use true bias strips to provide the give necessary to round the corners easily.

Binding Calculation Tips

Here is the formula for determining how much binding you can make with a given amount of fabric. Divide the width of your square by the desired width of the strips. Then, multiply that number by the width of the square.

Example: 44" square. Divided by 2" binding = 22 strips.

22 strips each 44" long = 968 inches or 26.8 yards of binding.

Attaching Your Quilt Binding

How to Make Mitered Corners

For me, attaching binding by machine is the most practical and durable method. To create a nice clean finish, I attach the binding strips to the back of the quilt first, pull the binding around to the front, and top stitch the edges.

To do this, attach one side at a time, leaving a 6-inch tail at the beginning. If desired, pin the binding in place. Skip this step if your comfortable. Stitch the binding in place using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and stopping 1/4 inch from the corner on a diagonal. I like to mark this spot this a pin.

To make a clean mitered fold, bring the tail upward and create a 45-degree fold. Pin this fold in place.

Then, bring the tail back down, aligning the binding with the edge of the quilt. Start sewing at the edge of the quilt, back stitch and continue sewing until you reach the next corner. Complete the process shown in the two preceding steps.

Connecting the Ends of Your Binding - Tips For Creating a Perfect Finish

Connecting the raw ends is one of the trickiest steps. This is the method that I use.

Bring the two tails together to estimate the perfect meeting point. Bring the left-hand tail upward to form a slightly diagonal crease. At the same time, fold the left-hand tail downward, so it forms a crease parallel to the other folded edge. Press these creases or mark the folded edge if desired. Pinch the tails together, flatten down the fold and use pins to keep the creases lined up. Stitch across the binding strip on the established crease/seam line. Use a small stitch to create a durable finish.

Tip: If you aren't comfortable with your seam placement, use a larger stitch. Smooth the binding down to check the length for extra bulk or tugging. Once your binding lays flat, sew over the seam again with a smaller 1.8 mm stitch.

Hand Stitched Binding

Some people insist on sewing their binding by hand, others prefer sewing by machine. If you'd like to hand sew your binding, attach the strips to the front first and blind stitch the edge on the back.

If you're using a machine, sew the fabric on the back, bring the edge around the front and topstitch down.

Topstitch Your Binding

Instructions for a Machine Finish

The Fold Over

Once your binding is attached to the back and your ends are joined, it's time to bring the binding to the front.

Pin down the edges, if desired, and crease the corners by folding the top edge down and creating a small 45-degree fold.

While maintaining the previous crease, fold the other corner back to create a neat miter.

Top stitch as close as possible to the edge of the binding. Sew all the way around the perimeter, taking extra care when stitching down the seam that joins the raw edges.

Now, your quilt it done! Enjoy and admire all of your hard work!

See My Quilt Binding Video on YouTube - Want to See the Process In Action? Check out my video tutorial!

In this video, I'll cover all the basics of attaching the strips to your quilt. This segment includes sewing by machine, folding perfectly mitered corners, joining the ends, folding the binding over and finishing by machine or by hand.

A Finished Quilt! - Complete with Mitered Corners!

My Finished Quilt!
My Finished Quilt!

© 2013 QuiltFinger

More by this Author

What's Your Favorite Method for Binding a Quilt? - Share your tips and troubles here. 4 comments

marsha32 3 years ago

You top stitched and it did alright with the back?

I am learning more about binding. I personally like the wrap around method just for ease of making, but still have trouble making the corners look neat.

I bought one of the binding tools, after I seen it demonstrated.

QuiltFinger profile image

QuiltFinger 3 years ago from Tennessee Author

@marsha32: I have really good luck top stitching. Although I never never used binding tools, it's my favorite method. Ideally, there's a little bit more fabric on the front and your top stitching line will fall inside the edge of the binding on the back. Occasionally, it might veer over into the bottom edge of the binding, but that doesn't usually happen if the binding is wide enough and if it does, you can always take out a few stitches and fix that quickly. Hope this helps!

marsha32 2 years ago

I didn't have a clue what cutting on the bias was until my last workshop, even though I've heard it said a thousand times!

I just did binding on a round table topper and it worked out just fine.

aesta1 profile image

aesta1 11 months ago from Ontario, Canada

I hand sew my binding and just use the wrap around as I did not know any better. Thanks for this. I just have to study this and apply it to my next quilt.

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