Athlyn Green is an avid crocheter and knitter. She designs and sells handcrafted goods.
What Is Tatting or Shuttle Lace?
A craft that has come down to us through the centuries, tatting is a method of creating distinctive-looking lace in intricate designs. Tatting (or shuttle lace, as it is called) employs the use of a thread-carrying tatting shuttle pointed at both ends. A tatter winds thread on the shuttle, then works stitches over the fingers onto the center thread.
Tatting is made up of basic units: the ring and the chain. A tatter fashions knots, loops and picots to create tatted lace. The different sections can be arranged into any number of positions, resulting in intricate and near-perfect tatted designs.
A Simple Tatting Shuttle and Thread Yield Stunning Results
Tatted lace has a distinctive look, and it is truly beautiful. It is usually somewhat thicker than crocheted lace and has a wonderful definition to it and a unique look all its own.
In this article, we will take a look at how tatting evolved from another ancient method that was used to adorn clothing, how tatting is actually executed using a shuttle and thread to produce lace, tatting as it's known today and modern applications of the craft.
Origins of Tatting
How did tatting emerge as a method of making lace? Tatting had its genesis in the craft of knotting. From antiquity, people used knotting to decorate clothing.
- It is believed the ancient Egyptians used knotting on garments.
- The Chinese used knotting techniques and worked these into embroidered designs.
- By the seventeenth century, the craft of knotting had truly taken hold. Additional knotting styles were introduced and it became a popular pastime in Europe.
- Early techniques involved successive knots, so that the work resembled threaded beads or tiny pearls.
- Knotting gained popularity in England. Designs were worked in fancy threads, which extended to the use of gold thread. Queen Mary was known to be an ardent fan and ladies at Court adopted the practice.
From Knotting to Tatting
At some point, the art of knotting transitioned into circles. The knotted thread was joined—and tatting, as it is known, became its own art form and caught on. It is believed that it may have had its start when, approximately 2000 years ago, fishermen used large shuttles to weave cord into certain knots while making fishing nets. Their methods were copied by weavers, but they innovated by using thread and smaller shuttles to make lace. Others learned the craft, and garments decorated with tatted lace were sold to royalty.
By the 18th century, tatting gradually replaced knotting. Early examples of tatting may have been referred to as knotting; however, the word "tatting" was first used in 1843. While knotting had served as a means of adding texture and visual appeal to garments, the look of tatted lace was so beautiful that is is understandable why this method eclipsed knotting. As well, entire panels of tatted lace could be produced.
How Tatting Came Into Its Own
By the 19th century, tatting designs began appearing in books and in magazines, such as Harper's Bazaar, and techniques became more definitive and better established. With the advent of designs and books, tatting went out to a far wider audience.
While originally, thinner threads were often used, after the 1920s, thicker thread came into vogue, which not only added durability but also added to the look.
Tatted or shuttle lace looks delicate; however, belying its filigree appearance, it is durable, and can withstand the passage of time. This makes tatted lace especially suitable for decorative trim and ornamental applications.
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The Evolution of Shuttles
Shuttles themselves were a thing of beauty, and could be quite intricate, made from ivory and inlaid with mother of pearl or fashioned from tortoiseshell, made from bone or horn, from silver, or other materials. These, of course, saw a change in materials, as they were commercially produced.
Gallery: Samples of Tatted Lace From the Early 1900s
Early Tatting Books and Authors
- 1843: Ladies Handbook of Millinery, Dressmaking, and Tatting, 1843
- 1850–1886: An Englishwoman, Mlle. Eleonore Riego de la Branchardiere wrote the first of eleven tatting books
- 1870: Isabella Beeton
- 1882: S. E A. Caulfield
- 1886: Encyclopedia of Needlework. Therese de Dillmont
How to Tat
A tatting shuttle holds a length of wound thread. A tatter will wrap the thread around one hand and then pass the shuttle through loops to make knots.
Some shuttles have a small hook on one end to facilitate this process (as seen in the photo and the video below).
Other Types of Tatting
- Needle tatting: Rather than winding thread on a shuttle, a length is threaded through the needle. While similar to the look of tatting, this method produces a different effect. Tatting needles are available, as well as a limited number of patterns.
- Cro-tatting: This involves a tatting needle with a hook at one end, similar to the hooked tatting shuttle. Unlike shuttle lace, cro-tatting can unwind.
Much depends, of course, on the preferences of the tatter but the tatting shuttle is the most commonly-used tool used to create tatted items.
Gallery: Needle Tatted Pieces From Beth Vawter
Gallery: Modern Celtic Patterns
Tatting in Modern Times
In the first half of the 20th century, tatting was a common pastime and magazines included designs to make assorted tatted items. But with mechanization and commercially-produced lace that could be bought at sewing stores on the roll and later in the craft sections at big box stores, tatting as a method for making lace went into decline and interest waned after WWII.
However, tides turn, and such has been the case with handcrafting to make fabric and lace. Newer generations are rediscovering the satisfaction of "going back to basics" and making quality items by hand, not only via knitting and crocheting, but through tatting, as well. Modern crafters are choosing to master methods their great-grandparents and grandparents were familiar with.
The Internet has played a huge part in this renaissance. People can connect in exciting new ways, sharing their love for these crafting methods virtually; and thus, all over the globe, a vast network has formed of avid crafters, who join with others and who benefit from instructional videos, virtual classrooms, forums, blog posts, articles, and more. This connected community has created a momentum that has kindled worldwide interest.
Gallery: Fashion Accessories from Lena Krolmark
What Can Be Tatted
Centerpieces for Tables
Covers for Sacred Objects
Edgings for Collars/Necklines
Gallery: Tatted Samples by Ravanda Emeraldagger
Gallery: Modern Tatted Jewelry
Modern Designers Rely on Tatting to Produce Drop-Dead Gorgeous Creations
As can be seen by these photos, tatting can be used to produce trendy designs that make the grade in the 21st century. Talented crafters have created home businesses around tatting and sell tatted earrings, tatted chokers and necklaces, tatted bracelets, fashion accessories and so much more.
Shuttle Lace From Past to Present
Fortunately, the ancient art of tatting was not lost to antiquity but made its way down to us. Tatters preserved their designs and cataloged them for posterity. The craft has been experiencing a revival and talented tatters are turning out eye-catching designs that are every bit as captivating as tatted specimens from the past.
© 2013 Athlyn Green
Julie Johnson on September 09, 2019:
You didnt ask about people who already know and do this lovely art. I have been ttaing for 40 yrars.
Athlyn Green (author) from West Kootenays on May 18, 2017:
Yes, it truly is.
agusfanani from Indonesia on April 08, 2013: