A Good Beginner's Project
This is a very lightweight and breathable top made with a cotton acrylic blend of yarn, making it perfect for the hot summer months. It uses most of the basic crochet stitches, so it's a good beginner's project for first-time garment makers. It gives a basic understanding of how to shape a garment, and the off-the-shoulder sleeves give a nice original look that makes it look anything but a first-time project. The pattern listed below is made to fit me, and I wear a small to medium. However, I will be listing ways to size it up or down to list each individual creator's body type.
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Supplies and Abbreviations
Here is what you'll need for this project.
- 5.5 mm hook
- Darning needle (for weaving in ends and connecting the sleeves to the body)
- Five balls of Pastel Cotton Purple Blue Shades from Ice Yarns (This is what I used for this project. It can be substituted with any other weight four-chain woven yarn.)
- Ch- Chain
- sc- Single crochet
- HDC- Half double crochet
- DC- Double crochet
- st- stitch
- slst- Slip stitch
Row 1- Work 30 HDC foundation stitches. (You can also ch 30 and begin that way since this area doesn't need the stretch that a foundation row gives.)
Row 2-91- Ch 1, work 1 HDC in each stitch across.
To make a different size, measure your under-bust, right under your breasts. Make this section reach around your under-bust but not wrap all the way around your bust. It should fit snugly, and it should be tight around your chest to avoid the need for a bra with this top.
Count 22 rows from the end of your breast band (the side doesn't matter all too much; just make sure it's the side you want your seam to be). Connect your yarn to the side of row 22.
Row 1- Work 1 HDC into the same stitch you connected to, and in the side of each row going all the way around. Once you reach the center where it is not connected, hold them together and HDC in the stitch on the other side to connect them into a circle.
Row 2- Once you reach the end, HDC directly into the first HDC of the previous row, and place a stitch marker in that stitch because we will be working in continuous rounds. HDC in each stitch around. Once you reach the stitch directly over the center of the V work, 1 HDC increase. Work 1 HDC in each remaining stitch.
Row 3-18- HDC in each stitch around. Remember to move your stitch marker up at the beginning of each row.
Row 19- Work 1 HDC in each stitch around (though, once you reach your stitch marker, place a slst).
Row 20- Ch 2, work 1 DC in the same stitch you joined on. *Ch 1, skip the next stitch, work 1 DC in the next stitch*. Repeat * around. Connect to ch 2 with slslt.
Row 21- Ch 1, work 2 sc in each ch space, and skip the DC stitch. Connect to first sc with slslt.
Adjusting the size of this area is already mostly done by creating the top band. Measure around your waist, and if your waist is larger than your under-bust, then work several increases in the lower rows to help it comfortably fit.
Tie in on the top corner of the open part of the breast band.
Row 1- Ch 3, count as first DC, skip next stitch, work 1 DC in the stitch after. *Ch 1, skip next stitch, work 1 DC in the stitch after*. Repeat * till the last 3 stitches of that side. Work 1 DC in each of the bottom 3 stitches, and work 1 DC in the center over the increases you worked. Repeat * pattern up the opposite side.
Row 2- Ch 1, work 2 sc in each ch space, skipping the DC stitch. Once you reach the center area of the 'V' work 1 sc in each stitch, and then repeat working 2 in each ch space up the opposite side.
Once you reach the top of the other side, don't tie off or turn, ch 1, and work 1 sc into the top side of each row on the breast band. Once you make it all the way around, ch 1, and slst into the first sc you made in the bra band.
Using whatever yarn or string you chose for the center lace of your project, start with a wingspan worth of whatever it is you are using. Now, I braided mine, so I started with a wingspan worth, plus an elbow's length to make up for the length lost while braiding. Once you get the right length of your choice of yarn, lace it through the bottom 2 loops of your DC lace. Lace it up the center using each Ch 1 area to thread your yarn through. Once you reach the top, try the top and tighten the lace until it holds your breasts—you don't need a bra with this top.
Row 1- Foundation HDC 45, join in the round (when joining foundation HDC the join makes a stitch as well, so only work 44 then join—it will give you the final 45 stitches).
Row 2-5- Ch 1, work 1 HDC in each stitch around, join w slst, but do not turn, so you have the same kind of ribbing as you do in the stomach area.
Row 6- Ch 3 (count as first DC) skip next stitch. Work 1 DC in the stitch after. *Ch 1, skip next stitch, work 1 DC in stitch after *. Repeat * around. Join with slst to Ch 3.
Row 7- Ch 1, work 2 sc in each ch space, skipping the DC stitch. Repeat around, join to first sc with slst.
Tie on on opposite side in the same row as the seam (this keeps the seam in the armpit area so it's not as noticeable).
Repeat rows 6 to 7 on the bottom of the sleeve as well.
Once you finish both sleeves, count in 22 rows. Place your stitch marker in row 22 on either side.
Line up your seam with the stitch your stitch marker is in and begin whip-stitching the sleeve to the body. Work 4 stitches of the sleeve onto 4 stitches of the body. Only connect 4 stitches; this allows for better mobility and doesn't restrict movement.
Measure around your upper arm, or size it as you go, as that's pretty simple with this part of the project. To make it fit, you just add in more rows until it fits comfortably around your arm.
Once you have your sleeves attached and your lace is done, all you have left to do is weave in your ends. Now you have a beautiful piece of clothing to add to your summer wardrobe to show off those beautiful summer bodies!
I hope you all enjoyed this pattern, and, as always, happy hooking!