Pullip Backless Sundress (Free Crochet Pattern)

Updated on November 13, 2017
dezalyx profile image

My favorite hobby is to crochet doll clothes. Using what I've learned from reading existing patterns, I create my own designs for Barbie.

Pullip posing in her Backless Sundress.
Pullip posing in her Backless Sundress. | Source

Pullip's Styling

To complete the photo, I included shoes from Barbie Ballet Flats and a hat from Pullip Goes to the Beach. The same sized hook in the pattern was used to make the shoes.

Going with the summer theme, I made this simple backless sundress for Pullip. Since its body type is much different compared to Barbie dolls, I tried to experiment with a different silhouette that will suit this body type. It is backless to reduce the bulk. This can also be made to fit Barbie, but I'll include my notes below if you want to do some adjustments.

This hub is a free crochet pattern for a backless sundress for Pullip. This design was fit on a Pullip with a Type 4 body.

Materials and Gauge

  • Size No. 3 Steel Crochet Hook;
  • Size No. 10 Crochet Cotton Thread;
  • 1 Small Snap; and
  • Gauge: 9 sc rows = 1 inch

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Abbreviations (American Terms)

  • Ch = chain;
  • Sc = single crochet;
  • Dc = double crochet;
  • Sp = space;
  • Sl st = slip stitch;
  • Sc2tog = sc the next 2 sts together;
  • Dc2tog = dc the next 2 sts together;
  • Sc3tog = sc the next 3 sts together;
  • Shell = (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated space; and
  • Inc shell = (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated space.

Close-up of Sundress
Close-up of Sundress | Source

Pattern

Starting at the waist of the skirt:

Row 1: Ch 23, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (22)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc all throughout), shell in the first sc, (sk 2 sc, shell in the next sc) across, turn. (8 shells)

Row 3: Sl st in each dc to the first ch-1 sp, ch 2, (shell in the next ch-1 sp, inc shell in the next ch-1 sp) 2 times, (inc shell in the next ch-1 sp, shell in the next ch-1 sp) 2 times, turn. (12 ch-1 sp)

Round 4: Sl st in each dc to the first ch-1 sp, ch 2, shell in each ch-1 sp across, join with a sl st on the last dc of the first shell of the Round, do not turn. (11 shells)

Your skirt should now look like this:

Notice that shells are overlapping to provide space for the snaps.
Notice that shells are overlapping to provide space for the snaps. | Source

Note: I deliberately joined Round 4 to make the 2 end shells overlap to have room for snaps. It makes for a neater back and will help make the dress look well-made.

Round 5: Sl st in each dc to the first ch-1 sp, ch 2, shell in the first 2 ch-1 sp, inc shell in the next ch-1 sp, shell in the next 4 ch-1 sp, inc shell in the next ch-1 sp, shell in the next 2 ch-1 sp, working through both thicknesses of overlapping shells, shell in the last ch-1 sp, join w/ sl st in the first dc of the first shell. (13 ch-1 sp)

Round 6: Sl st in each dc to the first ch-1 sp, ch 2, shell in each ch-1 sp across, join. (13 shells)

Round 7: Sl st in each dc to the first ch-1 sp, ch 2, shell in the first ch-1 sp, inc shell in the next ch-1 sp, shell in the next 3 ch-1 sp, inc shell in the next 2 ch-1 sp, shell in the next 3 ch-1 sp, inc in the next ch-1 sp, shell in the next 2 ch-1 sp, join. (17 ch-1 sp)

Round 8-9: Repeat Round 6. (17 shells)

Round 10: Sl st in each dc to the first ch-1 sp, ch 2, work 6 dc in each ch-1 sp, join.

Fasten off.

Top:

Row 1: Working on the opposite side of the working ch, sc in the first ch, dc in the next ch, (sc in the next ch, dc in the next ch) across, turn. (22)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, dc2tog, (sc in the next st, dc in the next st) until the last 4 sts, sc2tog, dc2tog, turn. (18)

Row 3: Repeat Row 1. (18)

Row 4: Repeat Row 2. (14)

Row 5-6: Repeat Row 1. (14)

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in the first st, dc in the next st, sk 1 st, work 3 dc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, work 3 dc in each of the next 3 sts, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, dc in the last st, turn. (22)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in the first st, sk 1 st, dc in the next 8 sts, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, sk 1 st, dc in the next 8 sts, sk 1 st, sc in the last st. (19)

Fasten off.

Ties:

Ch 40, sl st on the first 8 sts on Row 8, sc3tog, sl st in the last 8 sts, ch 40.

Fasten off and trim the ends.

Weave in all ends.

Sew a snap on the overlapping shells of the skirt and tie the top around the neck to finish.

Here is what the dress looks like from the back:

Sorry for the bad lighting, the hair was blocking the light.
Sorry for the bad lighting, the hair was blocking the light. | Source

Notes for Barbie Backless Sundress

Pullip's body is more childlike compared to Barbie, so here are some notes on how to change this pattern for your Barbie doll:

  • Use a larger hook (Size No. 1 Steel Hook, same as the one used in Barbie Simple Strapless Bodycon Dress).
  • Add some more rows to the skirt since Barbie's legs are longer.
  • Add some more rows to the top since Barbie's torso is also longer.

Questions & Answers

    Comments

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      • Ceres Schwarz profile image

        Ceres Schwarz 4 years ago

        Creative hub. This backless sundress looks really pretty as can be seen in the images. This will be very useful and helpful for those who want to crochet a backless sundress for their Pullip or Barbie dolls.

      • peachpurple profile image

        peachy 4 years ago from Home Sweet Home

        beautiful craft! I am not good at crochet. Tried to learn once but failed to pick up the stitch. You could do so well. Might as well sell them to crochet shops. Could fetch you some money. Voted up

      • profile image

        Susie 4 years ago

        Love doll and your clothes. Alas, cannot afford one.

      • wordsmith2418 profile image

        Veronica Lewis 4 years ago from Pocono Mountains, Pennsylvania

        This little dress is adorable! Voted up!

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