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Knitted Robin Hood Doll (With Pattern)

I have been knitting for over 50 years and love to share this wonderful, relaxing and therapeutic craft with others.

Finished knitted Robin Hood doll

Finished knitted Robin Hood doll

Robin Hood Knitting Pattern Introduction

I love designing knitted toys. They are quick, portable, always well received and can't fail to make you smile.

The design of Robin Hood came to me after watching the film and he turned out just how I envisioned him.

My dolls are aimed at begginer knitters but packed full of enough character to keep a more experienced knitter happy. They are very simple shapes and most of the construction can be done on the outside.

Robin Hood is slightly more challenging, but slowing down and taking your time can ease the process. You could also post a question here if you get stuck.

I'm sharing this pattern with you using a variety of mediums e.g. text, videos and pictures to help you knit your own Robin Hood Doll.

I hope you enjoy the pattern below.

Necessary Materials

  • Copper double knitting (dk) yarn, approx. 25 g
  • 2 shades of green dk yarn, approx. 25g of each
  • Dark brown dk yarn, approx. 25g
  • Flesh dk yarn, approx. 25g
  • A small amount of medium pink dk yarn
  • A small amount of black double knitting yarn
  • A small amount of Yellow dk yarn
  • Toy filling
  • A darning needle for sewing up
  • A drawing or black pencil
  • A pair of 3 mm knitting needles
  • 2 x 3 mm Double Pointed Needles (DPN’s)
  • A 13cm length of pipe cleaner
  • Use 3 mm knitting needles throughout unless otherwise stated

Useful Information Before You Begin

  • Leave long yarn tails on your cast on/off pieces as they are the best/strongest way to sew up.
  • Practice the facial features by placing pins e.g. for the eyes, until you are satisfied with the look.
  • When sewing in the eyes, tie a single knot into the end of the yarn leaving about a 2 cm tail.
  • Starting at the back of the head, push the needle through to the front at the point where you want to place the features, pull until the knot & tail disappear & sew as required. If a little of the tail still shows, then pull it gently & carefully snip with scissors close to the body. Once you are happy with the facial features you secure the yarn in the same way, tie a double knot in the excess yarn about 3 cm from your toy. Take the yarn through to the back of the head, pull the yarn slightly and snip close to the body. The knot will help secure the yarn inside the body and prevent unravelling.
  • The nose is 3 stitches in the same spot, laying the stitches side-by- side as you stitch.
  • The eyes and mouth are just single stitches (2 single stitches for the mouth, meeting in a slight V at the base).
  • I usually make 2 small straight stitches about two rows long for each eye.
  • Frequently refer to your picture of Robin Hood to check for placement tips.

Special Abbreviations

  • KFB – Knit into the front & back of a stitch
  • Ssk = Slip, slip, knit

First Stitch

  • Slip the first stitch from the left-hand needle (as if to knit it) to the right-hand needle without actually knitting it
  • Do the same with the next stitch
  • Insert the left-hand needle into the front loops of these two stitches – left to right
  • Wrap the yarn in the usual way around the right-hand needle & knit the 2 slipped stitches together.

You have completed 1 ssk.

There is also a video below if you would prefer a visual interpretation of this technique.

The Body

Using 3 mm knitting needles & your copper yarn, cast on 40 stitches (Sts).

  • Starting with a knit row, stocking stitch (ss) 16 rows. Change to the lighter shade of green.
  • Starting with a knit row, ss 14 rows. Change to flesh colour.
  • Starting with a knit row, ss 15 rows.

Cast off knit wise.

Making Up the Body

With right sides together, sew row ends together using back stitch and changing tail colours, as necessary. You can use an alternative method of sewing up if you wish e.g. mattress stitch.

With wrong side facing & seam at centre back, over sew bottom end together (copper colour). Turn right side out and find the centre of the copper bottom part of the body. Sew a line of back stitch from the bottom towards the top of the centre line, stopping three rows short of the green body. This will give the appearance of trousers.

Fill with toy filling.

Over sew top end together, keeping the seam at centre back. You now have a small pillow shape ready to add the character.

The Arms

Using the lighter shade of green, cast on 8 Sts.

  • Rows 1-3. Knit.
  • Rows 4-8. starting with a purl row, stocking stitch 5 more rows. Do not cut the green yarn here. Change to flesh colour.
  • Rows 9–14. starting with a knit row & at the same time catching the green up the side of your knitting every other row, ss 6 rows. Change back to green. You can snip the flesh yarn here but remember to leave a tail.
  • Rows 15-22. starting with a knit row ss.
  • Rows 23 & 24. knit.

Cast off knit wise.

Making the Arms

With wrong side facing (purl side), fold the cast on edge up to just below the start of the 2 knit rows on the cast-off edge or until the flesh colour hand has been folded in half. Over sew neatly along side seams swapping colours, as necessary. Stuff lightly.

Using your picture as a visual guide for placement, sew the back (longest side) of the arms to the body using a back stitch along the gap between the knit rows at the top of the arm. Then bring your yarn to the front of the arm (shortest side) and over sew the front arm to the body.

Repeat with a second arm.

The Shoes

Using dark brown cast on 8 Sts.

  • Rows 1-3. Knit
  • Rows 4-6. starting with a purl row, stocking stitch 3 rows
  • Row 7. SSK, knit to last two Sts, k2tog – 6 Sts
  • Row 8. Purl
  • Row 9. SSK, knit to last two Sts, k2tog – 4 Sts
  • Row 10. Purl
  • Row 11. Kfb, K2, Kfb – 6 Sts
  • Row 12. Purl
  • Row 13. Kfb, K4, Kfb – 8 Sts
  • Row 14. Purl
  • Row 15-21. starting with a knit row, Ss.
  • Row 22. Knit
  • Row 23. Starting with a knit row, ss a further 10 rows

Cast off knit wise.

Making the Shoes

With wrong (purl) side facing fold the cast on edge of the shoe up towards the 2nd garter stitch ridge in the middle of the shoe, stopping when the toe of the shoe has been formed. Over sew side seams neatly.

Roll up the final 10 stocking stitch rows tightly towards the same 2nd garter stitch ridge (rolling under the shoe as this is the heel) Sew heel in place securely.

Using your picture as a visual guide for placement, sew shoes (longest side is the bottom of the shoe) to one side of the bottom of the body using a back stitch along the 2nd garter stitch row in the middle of the shoe. Then bring your yarn to the front (top) of the foot and over sew, attaching the shoe to the bottom front of the body. Repeat with the 2nd shoe.

The Shoe Fringe

Using dark brown, cast on 10 Sts.

Garter stitch 2 rows.

Cast off.

Cut 20 pieces of dark brown yarn approximately 10cm long.

For the next bit look at one of the garter stitch strips you have just knitted, disregarding the cast/cast off rows, notice that one ridge is made up of two interlocking rows of knit stitch. The stitches look like little interlocking dashes.

Using a thin crochet hook or a darning needle and starting at the beginning of one of the garter stitch strips, thread each piece through a knitted dash- then secure (tying in a knot is fine) until you have used up 10 pieces of yarn evenly along the width of the strip. You can then trim to a nice length. Repeat on the 2nd garter stitch strip.

Take each piece of fringe and sew to the bottom of Robin Hood’s legs so that the fringe slightly overlaps the top of his shoes. Repeat For The Second Shoe.

The Tunic Skirt

Using your lighter shade of green, cast on 48 Sts.

Starting with a knit row, ss 6 rows.

Cast off.

Attaching the Tunic Skirt

With right sides together sew the side seams together. Turn right side out.

Pin the tunic skirt around the last row of the green body and with the seam at centre back, sew in place.

Face and Hair

Using a small amount of black, flesh and medium pink, stitch the eyes, nose and mouth following the instructions for Robin Hood’s face as above.

I found it easiest to do the hair in stages.

To begin, the front of Robin Hood should be facing you.

Using a long piece of dark brown yarn threaded into your darning needle, long stitch a staggered line of hair from 3 to 4 rows down from the head seam up to & including the head seam.

Turn Robin Hood so that the back is now facing you.

Repeat the hair technique from the head seam to 7 to 8 rows down the back of the head all the way along.

For the side pieces of hair I started 3 stitches from the outside of Robin Hood’s eyes & going around the side of his head, make long stitches long enough to reach round to the hair at the back of his head. Stop once the top part of his hair has been reached and covered. Repeat for the other side.

The Hat

Side 1:

Using your lighter shade of green, cast on 20 Sts.

  • Row 1. Ssk, knit to end–19 Sts.
  • Row 2. Purl to last 2 Sts, p2tog-18 Sts.
  • Row 3-8. Repeat row 2 until 12 Sts remain.
  • Row 9. Ssk, knit to last 2 Sts, k2tog-10 Sts.
  • Row 10. Purl to last 2 Sts, p2tog-9 Sts.
  • Row 11. Ssk, knit to last 2 Sts, k2tog-7 Sts.
  • Row 12. Purl to last 2 Sts, p2tog-6 Sts.
  • Row 13. Ssk, cast off to last 3 Sts (including the stitch on your right-hand needle), k2tog, pass back stitch over front stitch, bind off.

Side 2:

Using your lighter shade of green, cast on 20 Sts.

  • Row 1. Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog-19 sts.
  • Row 2. P2tog, purl to end-18 sts.
  • Rows 3-8. Repeat until 12 sts remain.
  • Row 9. Ssk, knit to last 2 Sts, k2tog-10 Sts.
  • Row 10. P2tog, purl to end-9 Sts.
  • Row 11. Ssk, knit to last 2 Sts, k2tog-7 Sts.
  • Row 12. P2tog, purl to end-6 Sts.
  • Row 13. Ssk, cast off to last 3 Sts (including the stitch on your right-hand needle), k2tog, pass back stitch over front stitch, bind off.
  • With right sides of hat together (knit rows) sew the top of the hat together.

Turn right side out.

Hat Brim (Make Two):

Using your darker shade of green, cast on 21 Sts.

Row 1. Knit to last 2 Sts, k2tog-20 Sts.

Row 2. Cast off the first 3 Sts, knit to end-17 Sts.

Row 3. Knit to last 2 Sts, k2tog-16 Sts.

Row 4. Cast off first 3 Sts, knit to end-13 Sts.

Cast off.

Using your picture as a guide, sew the hat brim pieces to the bottom edge of the hat.

Now sew the hat to the top of Robin’s Head. Use your picture as a guide.

The Quiver

Base:

Using copper yarn, cast on 6 Sts.

Starting with a knit row and slipping the first stitch knit wise at the beginning of each row, ss 6 rows.

Cast off.

Quiver Side Panels (Knitted as One Piece):

Using copper yarn, cast on 17 Sts.

  • Row 1. Slip first stitch knit wise, knit to end.
  • Row 2. Slip first stitch knit wise, p3, k1, p3, k1, p3, k1, p3, k1
  • Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 32 rows have been completed from the beginning
  • Row 33. Knit
  • Row 34. knit
  • Row 35. knit
  • Row 36. Cast off knit wise

Sew each side panel to one side of the base square, matching the indented columns to the corners.

With the quiver turned inside out, sew up the side seam.

Turn right side out.

Quiver Strap:

Using copper yarn, cast on 4 Sts.

Garter stitch 49 rows.

Cast off.

Sew one end of the quiver strap to the bottom of the quiver and the other end of the strap to the top of the quiver.

The quiver will be placed diagonally across Robin Hood’s body (see photo).

Arrows

Using dark brown yarn and your 3 mm DPN’s, make a 3st I-cord for 23 rows as follows.

  • Row 1. Knit 3 Sts. Do not turn you needle to start the next row but push the 3 sts to the other end.
  • Row 2. pulling yarn firmly, knit 3 Sts. Push the 3 Sts to the end of the needle. Note how the yarn carries across the back of your work. That is good, it’s supposed to, and it’s what gives the tubular shape.

Remembering to pull the yarn firmly at the beginning of each row, knit another 21 rows.

Cast off in the usual way.

Run the ends through the centre of the I-cord with your darning needle.

Arrow Tips:

Using yellow yarn, cast on 1 st.

  • Row 1. Kfb-2 Sts
  • Row 2. Purl
  • Row 3. Kfb, kfb-4 Sts
  • Row 4. Purl
  • Cast off

With wrong sides together (purl sides) neatly over sew the 2 slanted edges. Place the arrow tip over one end of the arrow body and sew in place. Repeat for the second arrow.

Arrow Feather Quills:

Using yellow yarn, make a 2 St I-cord for 5 rows.

Cast off. Make A further 9 quills.

Run the ends through the centre of the I-cords with your darning needle but leave the longest tail for sewing feather quills to the top of the arrow.

I found it easiest to wrap a small piece of double-sided tape around the top of the arrow then place 5 feather quills evenly around each arrow and sew in place.

The Beard

Using dark brown yarn, cast on 1 St.

  • Row 1. Knit.
  • Row 2. Kfb-2 Sts.
  • Row 3. Knit.
  • Row 4. Kfb, kfb-4 Sts.

Cast off.

Sew in place directly under Robin Hood’s mouth.

The Belt

Using brown yarn, cast on 45 stitches.

Starting with a knit row, stocking stitch 3 rows.

Cast off.

Sew the row ends together. Place the belt on Robin Hood just above the tunic skirt and sew in place.

The Belt Buckle

Using yellow yarn, make a 2 St I-cord for 18 rows

Cast off.

Run one tail end through the centre of the I-cord

Pin I-cord into a square shape around centre front of Robin Hood’s belt & sew in place using the other tail end, making sure the ends meet and are sewn up neatly.

The Bow

Make sure you leave long tail ends either end of this I-cord.

Using dark brown yarn & a piece of 13.5 cm long pipe cleaner, make a 5 St I-cord- covering the pipe cleaner as you draw the thread around the back for each row. This will be approximately 35 rows.

The I-cord may look a bit gappy where the yarn is drawn across the back of the pipe cleaner but that’s okay, you can sew this up to close it with one of the tail ends.

With the second tail end, pull gently towards the opposite end of the bow until a D shape has formed. Sew tail securely in place whilst keeping the D shape.

Sew bow to Robin Hoods Hand.

Knitted Robin Hood Doll

Knitted Robin Hood Doll

This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

© 2022 Sue Creftor