My favorite hobby is crocheting doll clothes. Using what I've learned from reading existing patterns, I create my own designs for Barbie.
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I wanted to actually make a dress that just uses the ridged pattern all throughout or at least the majority of the dress that will still have some waist shaping in the design without using a belt. Having played around with some patterns recently that used this ridged pattern, I think I was successfully able to meet this goal and thought I should share the pattern.
I created this free sundress pattern to fit Barbie Model Muse dolls. For more information on the different body types of Barbie, please visit Crochet Clothes For Your Barbie Doll.
- Size No. 1 Crochet Steel Hook
- Size No. 10 Crochet Cotton Thread
- 1 Small Snap
- Tapestry Needle
- Needle and Thread
Abbreviations Used in American Terms
- Ch(s) - chain(s)
- St(s) - stitch(es)
- Sl st - slip stitch
- Sk - skip
- Sc - single crochet
- Hdc - half double crochet
- Dc - double crochet
- BLO - back loops only
- FLO - front loops only
- RS - right side
- WS - wrong side
Thought Process Behind the Pattern
Before actually sharing the pattern, I thought I would also share the process with you in case you wanted to make this same design for a different doll or body type than the one I am using.
First, you want to choose a hook you want to use as well as your thread. I used a Size No. 1 Crochet Steel Hook along with my Size No. 10 Crochet Cotton Thread.
Next, you want to make a swatch of the ridged pattern in sc's only. I chained an appropriate amount to cover one specific area (bust, waist, or hips) and figured out just how many rows I would need to just cover each area tightly. So here is what my swatch looked like:
- Ch 7, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.
- Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in each sc across, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until you find the number of rows you need in order to full cover each area. Take note of these numbers for later. Mine was 33 for the bust, 23 for the waist, and 33 for the hips. I figured that since the bust and the hips ended up having the same number of rows, and I wanted to incorporate dc sts in the design, that I would not be measuring the hips anymore for the next swatch.
Now, repeat the process of making a swatch, this time with the next st that is taller than sc, the hdc.
- Ch 7, hdc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.
- Ch 1, working in BLO, hdc in each hdc across, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until you can cover each area again. I got 22 rows for the bust and 16 rows for the waist. Because the number for the bust in this swatch is almost the same as the number for the waist in the sc swatch, I decided that I needed at least 23 rows of hdc's for the bust and 23 rows sc's for the waist. Then just add dc's below the waist in order to make a slightly fuller skirt.
But since the ridged pattern will only look seamless if the rows are an even number, I knew I needed to make 24 rows in order for the dress to fit the doll, leaving the smallest possible allowance in order to find the perfect fit. Then I started making the initial ch and measuring just how tall will each area be, adding another ch for the turning st, and making the appropriate number of sts that were needed.
If your numbers do not match as well as mine did, try making another swatch, this time using dc sts until you find one that comes as close as possible to the shorter st swatch.
Read More From Feltmagnet
Ridged Dress Pattern
Working from side to side,
Row 1: Ch 40, work the sts in this row in the back ridges of the chs, hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in the next 10 ch, sc in the next 7 ch, dc in the last 21 ch, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, working in BLO, ch 3 (counts as dc from here throughout), dc in the next 20 dc, sc in the next 7 sc, hdc in the last 11 hdc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, working in BLO, hdc in the first 11 hdc, sc in the next 7 sc, dc in the last 21 dc, turn.
Rows 4 - 24: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 ending with Row 2.
Row 25 (RS): Ch 1, working on the sides of the hdc's, work 35 sc evenly across to the other side, turn. (35)
Row 26 (WS): Ch 1, sc in the first 5 sc, ch 9, sk the next 6 sc, sc in the next 13 sc, ch 9, sk the next 6 sc, sc in the last 5 sc, turn. (23 sc, 18 ch)
Row 27: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, sc in the next sc) 3 times, sk the next sc, (ch 1, sc in the next ch) 9 times, sk the next sc, (ch 1, sc in the next sc) 11 times, sk the next sc, (ch 1, sc in the next ch) 9 times, sk the next sc, (ch 1, sc in the next sc) 4 times.
Fold the piece to make Rows 1 and 24 meet together with WS facing out, attach thread with a sl st at the bottom of the dress in both FLO of the 2 Rows, continue sl st the ends together in FLO all the way to the 39th st (ignoring Rows 25 - 27).
Note: Make sure to ignore Rows 25 - 27 as those stitches are not as stretchy as the ridged pattern or you would have a tough time putting on the dress on your Barbie.
Turn the dress inside out so the RS is facing outward.
Attach thread with a sl st at the joining seam at the bottom of the dress.
Round 28: Ch 1, working on the sides of the dc's, work 50 sc evenly around, join with sl st in the first sc, do not turn. (50)
Round 29: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, sc in the next sc) around, ch 1, sl st in the first sc to join.
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Sew 1 small snap at the top to close.