Barbie Peplum Tank Top (Free Crochet Pattern)

Updated on January 24, 2018
dezalyx profile image

My favorite hobby is crocheting doll clothes. Using what I've learned from reading existing patterns, I create my own designs for Barbie.

Barbie Peplum Tank Top
Barbie Peplum Tank Top | Source

I have not had as much time to make new doll clothes, what with making big crochet projects like afghans and having to babysit my niece and nephew during their summer break. However, here is a new design I came up with inspired by some stitches from the crocheted dress I recently made. The whole top basically consists of the shell stitch pattern with only a few basic stitches thrown in to help with the increasing or decreasing of the design.

It is a bit different from my usual patterns, in that there are a lot more ends and tails in the design. It's all created in one piece, so you only need to sew the snaps in to finish the top. This pattern is made for the Barbie Basics doll (or Model Muse). For more information on Barbie body types, please visit Crochet Clothes for Your Barbie Doll.

Materials and Gauge

  • Size No. 1 Crochet Steel Hook;
  • Size No. 10 Crochet Cotton Thread;
  • 2 Small Snaps; and
  • Gauge: 9 Shell Rows = 2 inches.

Abbreviations

  • Ch - chain;
  • Sc - single crochet;
  • Dc - double crochet;
  • Sk - skip;
  • Sp(s) - space(s);
  • Sl st - slip stitch;
  • Sc2tog - sc the next 2 sts together;
  • Shell - 5 dc in the indicated stitch;
  • Half shell - 3 dc in the indicated stitch; and
  • Sc2tog shells - sc2tog the center dc's of the next 2 shells / half shells.

Close-Up View of the Barbie Peplum Tank Top
Close-Up View of the Barbie Peplum Tank Top | Source

Pattern

Starting from the middle of the bodice:

Row 1: Ch 40 (ch 3 counts as first dc all throughout), work 2 dc in the 4th ch from hook, *sk 2 ch, sc in the next ch, sk 2 ch, shell in the next ch* 6 times, work a half shell in the last ch instead of shell, turn. (5 shells, 2 half shells)

Working on the 1st side:

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first dc, *sk 2 dc, shell in the next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc* 3 times, skip the remaining stitches, turn. (3 shells)

Row 3: Sl st to the center dc of the first shell, ch 1, sc in the same dc, *sk 2 dc, shell in the next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc* 2 times, fasten off. (2 shells)

Working on the second side:

Row 2: Join in the center dc of the next shell of Row 1 with an sc, *sk 2 dc, shell in the next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc* 3 times, turn. (3 shells)

Row 3: Repeat Row 3 of the first side.

Now working on the yoke:

Row 4: Join in the first sc at the end of Row 3 (either side), ch 3, 2 dc in the same sc, sk 2 dc, half shell in the next dc, ch 12, sk (2 dc, 1 sc, 2 dc), half shell in the next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in the center dc of the corresponding shell in Row 2 (to minimize the hole), sk (2 dc, 1 sc), shell in the center dc of the corresponding shell in Row 1, sk (1 sc, 2 dc), sc in the center dc of the corresponding shell in Row 2, sk 2 dc, half shell in the next dc, ch 12, sk (2 dc, 1 sc, 2 dc), half shell in the next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in the next sc, sk 2 dc, half shell in the last sc, turn. (6 half shells, 1 shell)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in the first dc, sk 2 dc, shell in the next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc in the next ch, (ch 2, sk 2 ch, sc in the next ch) 3 times, ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc in the next dc*, sk 2 dc, half shell in the next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc, sk 2 dc, half shell in the next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc, repeat *, sk 2 dc, shell in the next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in the last dc, turn. (2 shells, 2 half shells)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in the next sc, *ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in the next sc, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc, ch 1, sk ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in the next sc*, ch 1, sk 1 dc, sc2tog shells, ch 1, sk 1 dc, sc in the next sc, repeat *, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in the last sc.

Fasten off.

Back View of the Barbie Peplum Tank Top
Back View of the Barbie Peplum Tank Top | Source

Now working on the bottom part of the bodice:

Row 1: On the opposite side of the working ch, join in the first ch, ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch, *sk 2 ch, sc in the next ch, sk 2 ch, shell in the next ch, sk 2 ch, half shell in the next ch* 3 times, turn. (3 shells, 4 half shells)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first dc, sk 2 dc, shell in the next sc, sk 2 dc, *sc in the next dc, sk 2 dc, half shell in the next sc, sk 1 dc, sc in the next dc, sk 1 dc, half shell in the next sc, sk 2 dc* 2 times, sc in the next dc, sk 2 dc, shell in the next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in the last dc, turn. (2 shells, 4 half shells)

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in the first sc, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc, sk 2 dc, shell in the next sc, sk 1 dc, sc2tog shells, sk 1 dc, half shell in the next sc, sk 1 dc, sc2tog shells, sk 1 dc, shell in the next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc, sk 2 dc, half shell in the last sc, turn. (2 shells, 3 half shells)

Starting on the peplum part of the top:

Row 4: Sl st in the first 3 sts, ch 1, *sc in the first st, ch 2, sk 1 st*, repeat * across, sc in the next st, skip the remaining 2 stitches to reduce the overlap of the ruffle, turn. (9 ch-2 sps)

Row 5: Ch 3, 2 dc in the first sc, *sc in the next ch-2 sp, shell in the next ch-2 sp*, repeat * across to the last ch-2 sp, sc in the next ch-2 sp, half shell in the last sc, turn. (4 shells, 2 half shells)

Row 6: Repeat Row 4. (13 ch-2 sps)

Round 7: Repeat Row 5, but before turning, join with sl st to the first actual dc (not the turning ch), turn. (6 shells, 2 half shells)

Round 8: Repeat Row 4, join with sl st to the first sc.

Note: The joining in Rounds 7-8 are completely optional. I just wanted to limit the use of my snaps so I prefer joining whenever I can to help close the outfit. One advantage of joining is making the peplum part appear like it is all in one piece, instead of overlapping and adding bulk to the top.

Fasten off.

Sew in 2 snaps at the back to close.

Styling

For the hat, I used the Ruby Bowler pattern from Crochet from Barbie by Nicky Epstein. It is a basic hat that uses the moss stitch pattern (sc, dc) instead of just the basic sc stitch.

The shorts are a variation of my Barbie Mini Skirt. In that design, I used the same stitches and turned the bottom part into shorts. You can also pair this top with Barbie Short Shorts in case you want something that does not require snaps. Feel free to make a Barbie Duffle Bag to put the entire outfit together.

Questions & Answers

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      • marissa lopez profile image

        marissa lopez 

        19 months ago

        thanks so much :)

      • profile image

        Grammidoll 

        4 years ago

        Just what we needed for Barbie!!! I am going to make many of these. Thank you so much!

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