How to Draw a Siamese Cat Profile
Siamese Cat Profile
Cat Profile Drawing in General
When you draw a cat from life, as I just did, it's important to watch for a time when your cat is sitting still and relaxing. Don't make sudden movements to disturb him. Look at him, sketch, glance back and keep drawing fast because the cat may move at any time.
This is why it's so important to block in the shapes accurately first. Those few moments of blocking-in may be the only chance you get to capture the cat in exactly that pose. Cats can be fiendish about waiting till you need to look, then rolling over to wash their butt or yawning or turning their backs. Your cat is laughing, at you.
Ari is a poor model. If he sees me sketching, he will prank me like that. So if you see your cat staring at something interesting, like the kids playing in the hallway, you may get in a quick sketch to get the pose before the cat notices what you're doing. This time he happened to be a good model and stayed in that head-up, profile position through the entire drawing.
I'd like to thank him here for that rare opportunity.
If you don't have a cat willing to cooperate, try snapping his or her photo fast with your phone camera before the cat can react fast enough to move. Taking lots of kitty pics will give you unmoving references that make it a lot easier. Some poses are better done by watching and sketching though, since the exercise of remembering what your cat looked like thirty seconds ago and getting it down quick will give you the poses that you'd only snap a photo by pure luck -- those motion and action poses that are so graceful.
So let's start with the first stage -- blocking in. Don't take too long. Just look at the cat as a series of geometric shapes with volume and sketch those in like you were doing her as a cartoon. My cat is Siamese, so we'll be doing a Siamese.
Stage 1: Blocking In
You may have seen this in other art tutorials. It's there in almost all the art books I own and it's there on most online tutorials. The way to sketch something reasonably fast and accurate is to sketch it as a series of loose shapes, more or less accurate geometrical shapes that are the right size in relation to each other.
There are a lot of reasons to do this.
One of them is that if you got the muzzle too big for the head or placed the ear triangle wrong, it's a lot easier to erase that bit and do it over than if you got in every detail of a perfect cat ear and only then realized it was too small or large or placed funny. This sketch only takes a few moments if you don't hesitate. Try it several times over.
Try it from life, looking at a live cat that's looking at something across the way in profile. Try it from a photo of a cat in profile. Try it from copying my sketch. Sketch cats quickly to produce "gesture drawings" so that you start getting familiar with their facial proportions in relation to themselves. Their eyes are larger in relation to their heads than human eyes.
Their ears are on top, not the sides of their heads. Their muzzles are short but distinct. You don't even have to place the eye on the cat profile yet, this is ust ears, head, muzzle. The more often you do this sketch accurately, the easier it'll be to do good cat drawings.
When you get a good one, slide it under your drawing paper and you won't even have to erase the sketch lines. Just look at them through the paper and there you go! You can strengthen the sketch with a Sharpie for that trick to make the lines show better as a guide.
I skipped this stage for most of my life because I hated trying to erase those sketch lines. So i'm still trying to come up with good ways to avoid having to erase out construction lines. Doing them on another bit of paper -- it doesn't even have to be good paper -- then sliding it under your drawing paper is one of the easiest and most obvious. You can also use a light table if your drawing paper is thick.
It won't work too well for illustration board but anything else it'll work with a light table.
Refine the Shapes
Refining the Outlines
Stage 2 already looks like a cat profile drawing. Working over the loose geometric shapes, I was able to keep checking the real cat because he held the position. I'm very grateful to my grandchildren for playing loudly in the hall to get his attention. If you have a cat photo, take all the time you need studying the line of the edge of the cat's head and ears.
Place the cat's visible eye on its face. Notice that this is not an oval pointed at both ends or a circle. From the side, a cat's eye looks much like a human's eye from the side -- except that on a cat, the white doesn't show at all. My cat has Siamese markings. So his eye is a very pale blue, almost silver. In a black and white drawing, his eye would be white or just barely shaded except for the pupil.
That vertical curved line in the front also sometimes shows clear right through it if you're drawting the cat in great refined detail. It's a fascinating effect, but the lighting wasn't right for it today. Don't try for anything that subtle until you're either so used to drawing cats you can do it from memory or have a good photo to work from.
We'll just keep his eye pointed in the same direction as his ears and place it where it belongs. Notice that blunt blocky look above the eye where his head seems to flatten and then jump down? Part of that is the way the hair on a cat's head grows. Right on its forehead the hair grows straight up like a crewcut -- even on a long haired cat, the hair will stand up like that creating that fluffy shelf look. The top of the head is very flat.
Cats have no forehead to speak of compared to humans, especially from the side.
I sketched in the nose mostly for its side. You're seeing half an upside down T shape with a cat nose from the side. In front, it's an upside down T that's very fat and curly on the ends, but we'll do that in another Hub.
The ears are actually cones, not triangles. The base of the ear curls around and the top is rounded a little, but still generally pointed. It's important to get that curve where the ear meets the head otherwise the ear will look pasted on, unreal.
This outline is a stage that could be transferred and painted, done in colored pencils, oil pastels, pastels, any medium. I'm going to complete it as a graphite drawing. I've used a 9B graphite pencil for this demo so that the lines would be dark enough to scan well. You can use any type of pencil you have or want to, but the softer ones are easier to get good darks with and to shade with.
Copy this sketch too a few times and try developing sketches like this from your stage 1 blocking-in sketches. The more often you draw cats, the easier it gets. Keep looking at the real cat or photo to refine and check what you're doing -- if the cat's at a slightly different angle, draw what you see rather than what I drew.
Shading the Mask
Shading the Cat Profile
Around the eye, I drew some other guidelines. My cat and some other Siamese that I've known have a pale line right at the edge of their eyelids. This can be very dramatic sometimes and stand out against the dark fur. So I put guidelines especially at the front of the eye, curving it more to get that subtle half-sphere effect of looking sideways through the cornea.
Notice that I also left a little white coming out from the inside corner of the eye along the side of the nose. A dark pointed Siamese actually has very pale skin! This will show around the tear ducts and inside corner of the eye. That little detail creates a lot of realism and helps draw attention to the cat's luminous eye.
On the face, I carefully shaded with strokes going in the direction of the fur. This is important for any animal drawing. When your pencil strokes go against the fur to fill the shape, you don't get fur texture. You get sometihng that looks badly colored and crude. Unless you wanted the look of a scribble-colored cartoon it's better to try for fur texture.
Try both on different cat drawings to see the difference. It can be striking. On the cat's forehead I did several layers of vertical short strokes to get the darkest part of the forehead mask in. I colored his ears black. On his muzzle, I used much shorter strokes filling in a radiant pattern going from the nose radiating to the side and down.
I shaded with slightly curved strokes in the direction of his cheek fluffs. The mask will fade at different places depending on the age and coloration of your Siamese. So as you move away from the front of the muzzle, use soft loose expressive strokes still always in the direction of the fur. Start where a clump of fur is close to the skin and lift the pencil as you pull toward where that clump ends.
I did a little expressive shading for the cat's shoulder since it's pulled back in an interesting way.
Look between the ears and the cat's "eyebrow" area. Notice the mask stops early and there's a big pale patch. On most black cats and Siamese, there's an area where the fur is very thin and white or pale. You can often see right down to the skin in this spot. Keeping that pale patch in front of the ear in is one of the distinctive markings that show realism on a Siamese.
Of course a few have fur so thick it won't show -- but watch for exactly where the mask ends. Don't just assume it goes right to the ear or shades off smoothly as it passes the eyes. In the middle it'll be darkest, at the sides it fades out more. Past the corner of the eye it may darken again where the face part of the mask sweeps back.
When in doubt, draw what you see on your cat. This is a portrait of mine, so your cat's exact mask shape and markings may be very different. One thing you can do if he did move is to look at him and move your head till you see where the shading falls.
There's a patch of black behind the ear at its base too. This is another little detail of realism that varies per cat, but it's usually there fading to the light area at the middle of the head and base of the neck.
Place the whiskers carefully. Ari actually has white whiskers, but a few dark ones are good if you're working on a white background. White whiskers on black are difficult in pencil unless you swipe them in with a sharpened white vinyl eraser on smudged graphite. Also, he does have a few dark whiskers mixed in.
A cat's eyebrows have whiskers too. Look at the lovely curve they make springing out of his skin. These are the whiskers that help keep him from bumping his head on things if he lifts it. Ear fluffs may also stick out depending on the angle he has his ears. Some of those are like whiskers. But the main whiskers are eyebrow whiskers and the ones on the muzzle.
I don't know if all cats have them, but my cat also has two or three whiskers on his wrists. That must really help him when he's reaching under the furniture looking for things, he can tell where they are.
I've shaded his front leg strongly, with a little pale fur showing between his toes because Ari has snowshoe feet with white tufts between his toes. Your cat may vary. Draw the paws your cat really has unless you think my cat is cute. The fur on his chest radiates out from about the middle of his body. The fur on cat legs runs down, smooth, except on the back where it may fluff out loose. The fur on the back of the cat's head and neck flows down at an angle. On the shoulders it flows back at a slight angle.
Always, in any animal drawing, I'll say it again, follow the direction of the hair flow.
Whether you use loose sketching strokes as I did or draw with meticulous pen shading, it helps to be aware of the direction of the fur at all points. Draw fur as clumps and passages, don't try to do each hair. Even on whiskers, three or four stand for a dozen or two. The mind fills in the rest of them easily.
I hope you've enjoyed this cat profile tutorial. Try it at home -- especially with the cat you know the best, the one that's probably shedding on your clothes right now. Ari purrs and sheds his infamous Cat Hairs of Inspiration on you!