How to Repaint Metal: Restoring and Painting a Rusted Metal Project

Updated on October 4, 2017
Anthony Altorenna profile image

I like spending time in the garden, around the house, in the workshop, and fishing. Many of the projects in my articles are originals.

Restored Metal Gas Tank
Restored Metal Gas Tank | Source

Give New Life to an Old Metal Container with a Little Sandpaper and Fresh Paint

Old rusted metal is easy to repaint and to refinish, and there are many neglected metal objects out there that are worth saving with a little touch-up and a little paint.

A metal restoration project takes just a little effort, some sand paper, and paint, and can extend the usefulness of many vintage items such as this fuel tank for a small outboard motor. The steps outlined here will work for restoring many different types of metal items including old toys, outdoor chairs, tables and garden benches.

The key to a good paint job lies in the preparation. Sanding off all of the old paint and rust is crucial to obtaining a smooth and professional looking finish. With a little time and effort, repainting a used metal item saves money and gives new life to many old items.

The fuel tank for this project was faded from years spent outdoors, but the metal is sound and the tank does not leak. Gasoline is highly flammable, so the tank was emptied and the top was left open for several days to allow the fumes to disperse before beginning the metal restoration and repainting process.

How to Repaint & Refinish Metal


Preparing the Old Metal

Using fine grit sandpaper, lightly sand the entire surface of the metal to remove all of the loose paint, rust, and dirt. I used 150 grit sandpaper for this project. A wire brush would also work well to quickly remove rust and stubborn paint.

Wipe the container with paper towels or a rag soaked in Naphtha or a similar solvent cleaner. The solvent removes the fine particles left by the sanding, as well as any remaining grease and dirt. Allow the solvent to evaporate thoroughly, and dispose of the solvent soaked rags properly.

Mask off the fuel gauge with tape to protect it from the spray paint.


The Primer Coat

Spray on a coat of primer paint, using a quality metal paint primer. There are several brands available in spray cans and formulated specifically for exterior use on metal. When using a spray can of paint, spray in several light passes to avoid drips and runs. Complete coverage may require several light coats of paint.

The spray paint dries quickly, allowing the application of several coats of paint in a relatively short period of time. Paint the bottom of the fuel tank first. Allow the initial primer coat to dry before repositioning the container to paint the remaining surfaces. Paint the most visible section of the project last, in this case, the top of the tank.

Allow the primer coats to dry completely, and then sand lightly. I used 220 grit sandpaper between the primer coats for a smooth finish. Wipe away any of the fine particles left by the sanding before moving on to the color coat.


Painting Metal: the Color Coat

Spray on the color coat, following the same sequence and process used to paint the primer coats. Again, spray several light coats rather than one or two heavy coats to minimize drips and runs. After the first coats dry, use a high grit of wet/dry sandpaper to lightly smooth out the imperfections left by the aerosol paint. Keep the surface area wet, and sand lightly to avoid cutting all of the way through the color coat.

Allow the final color coat to dry thoroughly - at least overnight.

Apply decals or stencils over the dried color coat. For this project, a simple fish stencil was printed, cut out and then taped into position along the top edge of the tank. Mask the rest of the tank with newspaper to prevent over-spray, and then use a contrasting color to lightly spray paint over the stencil.

Allow the final paint coat to dry thoroughly before using the finished tank. Depending on the spray paint manufacturer, the freshly painted metal will take several days or longer to cure completely.

Making Stencils


Stencils make it easy to paint images on many different surfaces, from walls to tee shirts and from toys to cars. Plastic reusable stencils are common for creating borders around windows or along ceiling lines, though pre-made patterns can be limiting and unimaginative. Making stencils from clip art or other sources is a simple process and allows much more flexibility and greater creativity.

This simple stencil project originated from an image found on a seafood restaurant's takeout menu and was used to decorate the fuel tank for a small outboard motor. Use the same process to customize a stencil for nearly any painting project.

Find a suitable image for the project. A combination of simple shapes works well, as demonstrated by the shapes representing the skeleton of the fish. Use an image from a web page, clip art or even a kid's coloring book - just be sure to honor copyrights. Or draw your own unique image.


Size the image. Except for large images, use a copy machine to re-size pre-printed objects. Applications such as PowerPoint can resize clip art and other online images into a variety of sizes.

Print the image onto standard bond paper. In most cases, standard copy paper works well enough for single-use stencils. If a sturdier stencil is needed for multiple applications, either print additional copies or transfer the printed image to a heavier medium such as a manila file folder using carbon paper.

Cut out the negative sections of the image using a sharp Exacto knife. The negative sections are the areas where paint is applied to create the image. Cutting paper dulls the blade quickly, tearing the paper rather than slicing through it cleanly, so change the blade as needed.

Position the stencil, and secure in place with blue painter's tape. The blue tape is less tacky than standard masking tape and is designed for removal without pulling off the painted surface underneath. Another option is to spray the back of the paper stencil lightly with a temporary spray adhesive.

Mask off the rest of the object with tape and newspaper to protect from overspray.


Paint the stencil, using either an aerosol spray paint. Spray lightly and directly at the stencil, applying enough paint to cover the area but without allowing excess paint to seep under the edges of the stencil. If using a brush, dab the paint into the stencil using a vertical stippling motion.

Allow the paint to set up before carefully peeling away the stencil to reveal the image.

This weekend metal restoration project turned out pretty well. The old fuel tank stayed out of the recycling bin and I didn't have to buy a replacement. And the unique fish stencil has drawn some positive comments from others at the boat ramp.

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Restore and Refinish Metal Projects

Questions & Answers

    © 2012 Anthony Altorenna

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      • jbosh1972 profile image

        Jason 17 months ago from Indianapolis, IN. USA

        All this is great information for the DYI'er. Just as an aside, you should check all rusted metal objects for putting or perforations. Pitting is easy as you can use Bondo, or better, a high solids primer. Holes and perforations are more tricky and may require some welding or brazing to fill in. Otherwise, a very stellar and detailed write up!

      • Pam Irie profile image

        Pam Irie 5 years ago from Land of Aloha

        I use the wet sanding technique when I refinish metal. :)