I love to learn new crafts and are always on the lookout for new products and ideas to make crating easier for the crafting community
We see those lovely designs in vinyl and want to get our creative juices flowing. But layering vinyl can be a hassle and a challenge. It’s sticky, prone to static cling, and the bottom layer tends to jump up and kiss the top layer before you have it centered correctly. Additionally, it can be challenging to pull the layers apart without ruining them.
Layering HTV (Heat Transfer Vinyl)
The process of layering involves putting heat transfer vinyl on top of each other to produce satisfying designs. One of the most common types of vinyl to layer is HTV. It is used mostly on materials like cotton and cotton/polyester.
You can layer some HTV over HTV, but not all. Some HTVs are only made to be the top layer. So, understanding the products you are using is the key to your success. Anything that has a smooth finish like Standard HTV, Siser EasyWeed, Metallic, or Craft Perfect can be used on either the top or bottom layer. Smooth HTV can be stacked with up to four layers.
The bigger the design, the less layering is suggested as it can make your design too heavy.
Specialty heat transfer materials like flocked, holographic, and metallic can ONLY be layered on top of standard HTV. You can’t layer specialty HTV over each other like flocked over glitter or metallic over holographic.
Which Heat Transfer Vinyl Can You Layer?
|Name Of Vinyl||Can You Layer It?||Notes|
Only as the top layer
Glow In The Dark
Preparing Your Design
You will need a particular file that is compatible with your cutting machine. Using your machine’s software program, choose a design from the Design Space and size it to fit your surface. Remember, sizing is essential for each design. Vinyl can’t be too big or too small; otherwise, you will not achieve the planned design. You need to size the design to fit the area of the garment you are using.
Before sending your cut file to your cutter, be sure to choose the correct setting for the vinyl you are using. Select iron-on as the cutting material, and don’t forget to turn on the mirror setting. Next, load your vinyl cutter with the carrier side (shiny side) face-down, keeping in mind that you are going to cut on the adhesive side. Then, line the mat up between the guides and press the load button. Continue loading and cutting until each layer has been cut out.
When possible, cut the bottom layer first.
Tip: If you are using two different types of HTV, don’t forget to change the cutting material settings of your cutter from standard to whatever other type of vinyl you are using!
Weeding Your Design
Before you can apply the layers of your designs, you need to do the prep work. The prep work begins with weeding each of the layers of your design. This is the process of removing parts of the vinyl that is not part of the design. You use a weeding tool to do that.
After cutting all your HTV, remove the excess vinyl that is not part of your design, inside and around it, using a weeding tool.
If you are using a mat to cut the vinyl, leave the vinyl on the mat. The vinyl is perfectly flat so you can work easier.
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If your electronic cutting machine cuts the vinyl perfectly, you should be able to pull a great deal of the scrap vinyl away from the project. If you are pulling the scrap vinyl away, make sure to go slowly so that you do not pull away any of the intricate parts of your design.
Also, try hard to not let the sticky side of the vinyl you are removing stick to any part of the final cut image. Vinyl stretches, and pulling the vinyl apart can often distort your final image.
Once your image is fully cleaned up and all the negative vinyl has been pulled away, it’s time to transfer it to your project! When I first started working with vinyl, I used to painstakingly transfer one piece of my image at a time (by hand!). This method often left me with distorted shapes and poor spacing between the non-connected elements. The key to perfectly transferring your image from the cut mat to your project is to use transfer paper.
- Transfer paper can be used multiple times until the stickiness wears off (on average 3-5 times). So save the paper backing and re-use your transfer paper until it doesn’t seem to pick up the vinyl easily.
- Transfer paper works best when used to apply vinyl to a hard surface. You need to make sure to press the vinyl very hard all over the image to get a successful application. You will still need to pull the transfer paper away really, really slowly to ensure the paper release the image onto your less hard surface!
Trimming the Design
The next step is trimming as much of the design as you can so that the layers look neat and clean. Trim down as much of each individual piece. Get as much of the paper off as possible.
If it is a small very detailed design, use a detail scissor so that you can get as close to the design as you can.
What Does Trimming Your Vinyl Do?
- Saves pieces of vinyl for future use.
- Overlapping heat transfer vinyl and carriers will adhere to each other instead of the garment
- It reduces the chances that the carrier marks will appear on the garment.
Secure the Design
If your pieces are not on a sticky cutting mat, you should get the bottom layer on one now. Vinyl has a tendency to roll back on itself as it has a lot of static cling.
To keep your base layer nice and flat, smooth it onto a sticky mat just while you’re working.
How To Layer Front To Back Using Registration Marks
When you are layering always work from top to bottom:
- Layer 1 onto Layer 2
- Layer 1 + Layer 2 onto Layer 3
- Layer 1 + Layer 2 + Layer 3 onto Layer 4
- And so on
Using Transfer Tape
One of the keys of getting better transfers is the type of transfer tape that you use.
Layering vinyl designs very precisely will require transfer tape (also called transfer paper). This slightly sticky paper allows you to pick up vinyl designs (without distorting them) and lay them down onto another area (either your final project or another layer). Unless you are working with very small designs, I don’t recommend layering your vinyl designs without transfer tape.
- Cut down the transfer tape to a size that covers all of your design.
- Remove the paper backing from the transfer tape and lay it, sticky-side-down, onto your weeded vinyl design. I recommend laying it slowly from one end of the image to the other in order to reduce the risk of bubbles and wrinkles. If your transfer tape is not perfectly smooth, you will most likely end up with bubbles or wrinkles on your final project.
- Use a scraper to firmly rub ALL over the vinyl+transfer tape combination. Depending on the intricacies and size of your design, you may need to rub a lot in order to get the transfer tape fully adhered to the vinyl design.
- If you have rubbed the transfer tape sufficiently onto the vinyl design, you should be able to pull up the transfer tape and the vinyl will come along with it (detaching from its paper backing). I always recommend pulling up from a corner and moving very slowly to ensure the entire design comes up together. If the vinyl does not easily come off the paper backing, you need to go back and scrub more with the scraper. Once you have the vinyl design picked up off the paper backing, you are ready to layer it!
- The next step is to lay down the vinyl onto its base/next layer or final destination
- Once the vinyl+transfer tape combination is in place where you want it, you will reverse the process. Start by scrubbing the entire layer with the scraper again, this time with the goal of adhering the vinyl to the bottom layer. Once you’ve rubbed a lot, peel up the transfer tape to leave the vinyl design behind. To get the transfer tape to “let go,” I recommend pulling super slowly and on diagonal.
Pressing Your Design-HTV
Now it is time to press your HTV layers on your garment.
- Pre-heat your shirt to eliminate wrinkles and moisture content for about 3 to 5 seconds before you start pressing with your HTV.
- Smooth vinyl can be layered up to 4 layers.
- Set your heat press to 305° Fahrenheit, and if you are using an iron, select the highest setting.
- Fold your shirt in half to make a line; it will serve as your guide to quickly locate the center of your surface.
- For your first layer, fold your first piece of HTV in half and line it up over the centerline of your shirt.
- When it’s properly placed, hit it with heat for at least 2 seconds but not more than 5 seconds. Ideally, 2 to 3-second tack press. Wait for it to cool down before carefully removing the carrier sheet.
- Add the second layer, the standard-red, on top of your first layer. Check its final position, cover with a Teflon sheet, and again tack the heat transfer down for 2 to 5 seconds. Then, peel off the carrier sheet.
- For the third and final layer, lay the glitter HTV or other specialty HTV into place. Use your heat tape to hold your vinyl and prevent it from moving. Cover with a Teflon sheet and give it a full 20 seconds of heat and temperature. Glitter is warm peel vinyl, so you have to remove the last carrier sheet quickly after the timer beeps and while it’s still hot.
Applying heat transfer vinyl, especially when adding layers is like baking. You want to get just the right amount of heat to the layers. Why? Because overheating or underheating will both cause the layers to peel off the garment.
When layering HTV vinyl, it is important to remember that the first layer will also get the heat from all the other layers as well. So, if you had four layers with a recommended time of 15 seconds for each layer, the first layer would then get a total of one minute. That layer is apt to be a very burnt cookie.
It is important to use a cover sheet or a piece of parchment paper over the design for every press that you do.
- It protects the press from getting any residue of vinyl
- It protects the garment
- It protects the HTV
Overheating of HTV can also cause the design to shrink.
Always follow the manufacturer's guideline for pressing your project.
HTV Layering Tip:
Glitter heat transfer vinyl should always be the top layer of the design. When HTV is applied over glitter HTV, it does not adhere the same way. So in the end the design is probably going to lift after the first laundering.
HTV Layering Tips
Here are some additional HTV vinyl tips to help you create perfect projects every time:
- The base is the bottom part of your design; it will serve as the foundation of your heat transfer vinyl, meaning you have to make sure that the material will provide a secure surface for vinyl placed upon it.
- Never overlap your carrier sheets! Cut closely to save materials for your next project. It also reduces the risk of a carrier impression mark on the first layer of your HTV. In addition, trimming closely allows you to press multiple colors at one hit as it prevents even close vinyl decals from disrupting each other and ultimately saves your time.
- Pressing too short or too long can be a reason why your heat transfer vinyl is peeling off from your project. In layering HTV, the bottom vinyl, which is the base, will receive the additional heat of each press afterward. In this case, we use “two-second tack” to ONLY TACK the vinyl, enough to remove its carrier sheet. We do this tacking for the following layers except for the last that needs a full-time press.
- Cover your heat transfer vinyl as you press each successive layer. It will protect your vinyl from the hot platen and prevent your design from melting and shrinkage. Cover sheets keep everything clean and offer a layer of heat protection to prevent heat-sensitive items from scorching. If a heat transfer cover sheet is not available, you can use parchment paper instead.
- After transferring your HTV, let the adhesive sit and wait for at least 24 hours before washing your garment. Wash and dry it inside out with mild detergent and with cold or warm water. Dry in a low setting or hang for air dry. Do not iron your design directly.
How To Layer Vinyl With A Cricut Cutting Machine
More Cricut Layering Guides
- How to Layer HTV - YouTube
How to layer Cricut Iron On Viny
- How to layer vinyl with your Cricut - Adhesive and HTV - NeliDesign
Are you wondering how to layer vinyl with your Cricut? I'm going to show you an easy trick that works for both adhesive vinyl and heat transfer vinyl!
- Cricut Layering- How NOT To Layer HTV Iron-On - YouTube
This is my first time layering more than 2 layers of HTV. In this video, I share with you my ups and downs of layering.
How To Layer Adhesive Vinyl
Layering adhesive vinyl is a little different than heat transfer vinyl
To assist you getting the the layers on in the correct order, you need to add something extra called registration marks. Triangles are often used in this process. To make sure that you place the layers in the correct order, you color code the triangles.
Layering With A Cricut Cutting Machine:
- Select the design in Cricut Design Space
- Using the shape tool, add a triangle
- Resize the triangle to 1/2inch size
- Duplicate the triangle: Multiply the triangle (using the duplicate tool) for as many layers as your design has (2 layers = 2 triangles). Select all triangle layers.
- Center the triangle layers: With all triangle layers selected, click the Align Tool and select Center.
- Assign Layer Colors To Each Triangle: Select a single triangle layer in the layers panel on the right side of the canvas and change to one of the colors of your design. Note: Each layer should have its own color. Repeat for all triangle layers.
- Attach Same Colored layers: Select like colored layers and Attach. Repeat for each color.
- Click The Make It Button.
- Cut Your Vinyl: Connect your machine, select your material, load the mat, and cut.
- Weed Excess Vinyl From Triangle and Design: Using a weeding hook, remove the excess vinyl for each layer leaving the triangle and your design.
- Prepare the Layers: Start with the top layer of vinyl on your workspace. Add transfer tape over your design. Use the scraper to make sure it has properly adhered to the transfer tape. Do not remove the paper backing liner yet.
- Expose the triangle marker: Peel back the paper backing, only exposing the triangle. Cut away that area of paper backing, leaving the bulk of your design still covered by the backing paper. Peel back the corner and remove only that corner of the backing paper.
- Line Up The Layers: Line up the triangle of your top layer with the triangle of the layer that goes underneath (in this case our bottom layer). Keeping the bulk of your design covered with the paper backing ensures that you don’t get premature sticking from static cling or the sticky back of your top layer vinyl.
- Adhere The Layers: When you are happy with the alignment, press down firmly and use the scraper tool to adhere the entire exposed transfer paper area to the layer below.
- Remove the top layer backing paper: Carefully fold the top layer over and remove the remaining paper backing from the top layer. Be sure to keep the triangles adhered.
- Layer The Vinyl: Carefully return the fold to its original position and use the scraper to firmly adhere the top layer to the bottom. Be sure to smooth out any bubbles.
- Remove complete decal paper: Now that your layered design is complete, remove the bottom layer of paper backing from the transfer paper.
- Remove Triangle markers: Easily peel the triangle markers off the transfer tape.
- Apply Your layered design.
How To Layer Siser Holographic Vinyl
The Eyeball Method of Layering
The "eyeball" method is the quickest and easiest method to apply layers of vinyl. It works best when you do not have to be super precise.
It can be the riskiest way to layer vinyl, but after a few projects, you are bound to get better at it.
In this method, completely remove the paper backing off the vinyl+transfer tape combo. Hold the entire design taught with two hands.
Still holding up most of the design away from the bottom layer, lay down just one edge of the design so it lines up as needed. Because only a small section of the top layer is in contact with the bottom, you should be able to pick it back up and replace it if needed. With that edge in place, then smooth the rest of the top layer down, letting the design naturally fall into place. Don’t attempt to match up against other edges because you’ll end up with wrinkles.
By lining up just one edge as close to perfect as you can, the rest of the design should end up mostly matched up. Below is the result of the “eyeball” method, with only a tiny margin of the base layer showing on one side. I’ll take it!
The Cut and Place Method
This is almost as easy as the eyeball idea, but you get better control over placing the leading edge. For this one, do not remove the backing off the entire layer. Instead, peel up just 1″ or so of the vinyl design and trim away the paper underneath that area.
With paper backing still on the majority of your design, you will be able to place the leading edge with much more accuracy (since you can essentially lay down the entire design). Once you’re satisfied with the layer’s placement, secure that leading edge to the bottom layer.
Keeping that bottom edge fixed in place, remove the rest of the paper backing.
Then same as before, let the rest of the design naturally fall into place based on that original placement. You might want to use the XL scraper to force designs to lay down flat.
Again, don’t attempt to match up additional edges or you’ll end up with bubbles. Once that lead edge is placed, let the rest of the design lay out smoothly. Because you can’t really readjust, it’s important you get that lead edge exactly where you want it.
Layering Vinyl On Transfer Tape
Layering Using Registration Marks
This next method is very similar to the previous method but uses “registration marks” to enhance the accuracy of laying down that leading edge. Registration marks are shapes/symbols that exist in the same place on every layer. Once each layer is cut out, you simply line up all the symbols for each layer. Technically, registration marks should be set up within Design Space to ensure your layers are placed perfectly, but even I find the process of creating registration marks so tedious that I never do it. Instead, I’ll use a manually placed registration mark to guide my layering.
Whether you set up registration marks in Design Space or place them manually, I always recommend using stars. With five points to line up, you increase your chances of your layers being positioned correctly.
To manually place registration marks, cut a strip of stars out of vinyl. Then place stars in the exact same places on every single layer. Below you can see why stars are so ideal. By lining up the points of the stars to each corner and making sure each point is in contact with the edges, you can be sure your registration marks are in the manual placement works best when you have outside edges that stack on top of each other. If your layers are “offset,” it’s best to create registration marks within Design Space. Same place on every layer.
From here, you can place the top layer just as you did in the previous method: cut away a small strip of paper backing under the registration marks……then line up the stars on the top and bottom layers. If your registration marks are in the same spot on both layers, the multi-color design should fall into place perfectly.
Once you have all the layers down, you can peel up the registration marks.
Layering Vinyl With Parchment Paper
If you want the absolute best and easiest way to layer vinyl designs, you should use parchment paper.
By design, parchment paper is 100% non-stick. This means you can lay your full vinyl design onto it AND peel it back up without it sticking, distorting, tearing, wrinkling, etc. It’s also semi-transparent, so you can easily see your bottom layer through the paper. As such, it gives you a foolproof way to match up multiple layers without anything sticking or wrinkling accidentally.
Start by cutting a sheet of parchment paper big enough to cover most/all of your base layer.
Completely remove the paper backing off your vinyl+transfer tape combo and lay it onto the parchment paper. It doesn’t matter where (because it won’t stick!), but do make sure the design is entirely on the parchment paper.
From here, you can move the top layer all around, lining up edges or centering your layers however you need.
Once you identify your placement, tear away just a small section of the parchment paper underneath the transfer tape.
Then stick the transfer tape to the white paper backing of the base layer (right where my bottom hand is in the photo below). Make sure you stick enough transfer tape down in place to hold the design steady while you remove the parchment paper.
While keeping that leading edge of transfer tape firmly stuck down to the paper backing of the base layer, lift up the rest of the vinyl design and remove the parchment paper completely.
Then, like every method we’ve done before, once you have that lead edge down and the parchment paper removed, you can simply allow the rest of the design to fall back into place. Like before, don’t try to re-match up edges or re-direct the placement. With the leading edge down firm, the rest of your design should end up back where it started.
Once you smooth down the design and peel away the transfer tape, you’ll find the parchment paper method gives you practically perfect results!
Layering Vinyl With A Silhouette Cutting Machine
- The Secret to Layering Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) without Gaps - Silhouette School
Layer vinyl without gaps
- Silhouette Layering Vinyl Tutorial (The No-Fail Method) - Silhouette School
Easy way to learn how to layer vinyl
- The Easiest Way to Layer Vinyl Perfectly Each Time | Kelly Leigh Creates
Ever wonder how to layer vinyl so that it lines up perfectly? This tutorial will teach you the easy way to do it.
Final Thoughts On Layering Vinyl
Although layering HTV may seem difficult, once you learn and understand the steps, it is not that difficult at all. Following the guide that we have shared and using the manufacturer's directions for their type of vinyl will create a project that you may not have thought possible. Take time to understand the process and enjoy creating your own layered vinyl creation. Have fun as you grow in your abilities! Happy crafting!
This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.
© 2022 Linda F Correa