Coconut-Milk Soap Recipe

Benefits of coconut milk soap

This recipe will produce a soothing, healing and moisturising soap ideal for sensitive skins. Coconut-milk soap can be used to wash hair also and makes a great, inexpensive gift.

Coconut milk is high in fatty acids and vitamin E, which give it cleansing and healing properties, making it ideal for those with dry, sensitive skin.

Containing no animal products it's also a great option for vegetarians and vegans.

All of the photos in this article were taken by me.

Vegan friendly and contains no palm oil

This soap recipe is vegan friendly as it contains no animal products. No palm oil is used, so you won't be contributing to the destruction of Orangutan habitats.

Making coconut milk soap - safety first.

When making this soap it's important that you follow ALL of my instructions if you're not familiar with soap-making, right down to the type of materials to use. Don't skip any steps or alter this recipe in any way and you should end up with some nice, creamy, coconut milk soap. OK, if you like there is one way you can alter this recipe if you wish to do so - you can use a different kind of milk. If you wish to use goat's milk, cow's milk, rice milk, almond milk or soy milk instead of coconut milk, you can, but stick to 320g and use the full fat variety. Unpasteurised is fine.

Work in a well ventilated area such as a laundry room, garage or covered outdoor area. The fumes from the lye can get quite overpowering if there isn't sufficient ventilation.

Wear all of the listed safety equipment to prevent burns from the lye should any of it splash on your skin or into your eyes. Leave it on until you have poured the end mixture into the mold/molds.

Make sure young children and pets will not be running around you while you do this for their own safety and that you will not have any interruptions. When making soap you need to work fast and any interruptions could ruin the whole process.

Some soap-making terms

Saponification: The chemical reaction that occurs when oils/fats and a base such as lye react together to form soap.

Trace: The stage in the soap-making process where saponification is complete.

Other soap recipe I have written

I have also written a recipe for making Castile soap. Castille soap is the purest soap in the world.


Above: Equipment needed for making coconut milk soap
Above: Equipment needed for making coconut milk soap | Source


Keep this equipment strictly for making soap, do not use it for cooking, kitchen scale excluded if you can't afford to buy a separate one for soap-making. Just place some plastic food wrap over it whenever you're making soap so that the surface doesn't get contaminated with chemicals.

- Stainless steel pot or plastic bucket with high sides - one foot deep.

- Mixing bowl of at least 1000mls capacity to prevent spillage. Something with a handle or two is ideal but you need to be able to fit it inside the large pot/bucket so that you can gently put the ingredients from the smaller bowl into the large bowl. I suggest something with a handle because it might become quite hot as I will explain later.

- Electronic kitchen scale.

- Molds - any will do, but not aluminium or tin. Wood, plastic, waxed cartons such as milk cartons are all fine. I used to use old milk cartons and cut the resulting loaf into bars. I recommend using non-silicone molds because silicone molds form airtight seals around your soap that makes it very hard to unmold your soap.

- Mixing spoon or spatula - again not aluminium or tin.

- Safety glasses

- Rubber or latex gloves

- Long-sleeved fully closed shirt with a high neckline

- Stick blender set to high

DO NOT use ANY aluminium or tin equipment as the caustic soda will react with it.

Ingredients for coconut milk soap

Above: Ingredients for home-made coconut milk soap
Above: Ingredients for home-made coconut milk soap | Source

Ingredients - all ingredients are measured in grams.

  • Olive oil 800g, Pomace or pure. Virgin or extra virgin Olive oil can be used but they take longer to trace.
  • Coconut oil 200g, 76 degrees Fahrenheit coconut oil is best. Avoid virgin coconut oil.
  • Coconut milk (from a can or home-made) 320g, Chilled. Full fat.
  • Sodium Hydroxide 138g, Also known as lye or caustic soda.
  • Shredded Coconut (optional) 150g


  1. Put on your safety gear, ie. eyewear and long-sleeved shirt with high neckline and rubber or disposable latex gloves.
  2. Measure oils and mix together in the large stainless steel bowl.
  3. Place chilled coconut milk in small mixing bowl and remove any lumps.
  4. Gently add caustic soda to coconut milk (not the other way around or the lye could erupt like a volcano) and mix gently until the caustic soda has completely dissolved. You will notice that it turns a caramel colour. It's the sugar in the milk caramelising. Don't worry about it, it will turn white again as it sets. This mixture will become very hot, so be careful when you pick up the mixing bowl for the next stage. For this reason alone I don't recommend using a stainless steel mixing bowl for this step as metal will conduct the heat very quickly to your hands. DO NOT leave this mixture to stand in the bowl as it will get very hot and could boil over, causing quite toxic fumes.
  5. Rinse the spatula and keep it close by, you'll need it again.
  6. Gently and carefully add caustic soda/coconut milk mixture to oils and mix with stick blender until the consistency is like custard and you can see traces of lines left on the surface of the mixture when your run the spatula through it. This is known as the 'trace' stage. This is the longest stage and can take quite a while. If you use pomace olive oil you should reach trace within 5 minutes. If you use pure olive oil you should reach trace within 10 minutes. On hotter days trace happens faster. If your blending stick gets hot, stop and let it cool down for no more than 10 minutes. You might even find that when you go back to it, you might reach trace very quickly. Sometimes the heat from the lye will help the oil saponify while it stands, then the quick mixing action of the stick blender will finish the process. Don't leave it standing more than 10 minutes as it might reach trace by itself and harden just enough to prevent a smooth pour into the molds. See video and photos below.
  7. If you have chosen to include shredded coconut, now is the time to add it to your mixture. Working quickly mix 100g of the shredded coconut into the mixture, once the soap has hardened it will act as a gentle exfoliant.
  8. Promptly pour the mixture into your mold/molds using your spatula again to scrape as much of the mixture as you can off the side of the pot. You want to use as much of it as you can, there's no point wasting good soap mixture. Once poured sprinkle the remaining shredded coconut on top for a pretty finishing touch.
  9. Leave your soap to harden for 48 hours. If you're using a loaf-type mold so that you can cut your soap into slices, do this at around 36 hours, if you leave it for 48 hours it will be too hard to cut cleanly and before 36 hours it will be too soft to handle. A bread knife is perfect for cutting soap.
  10. The soap will be ready to use after 48 hours but the bars won't be very hard or long-lasting and the pH will still be quite high so the soap might be harsh on skin. It's best to leave your soap to cure for at least 6 weeks so that you get some harder, longer-lasting bars that are gentler on skin. Place your bars on some paper towels and turn them over weekly until they're cured.

What 'trace' looks like

Below: This is what 'trace' looks like.

Above: Perfect. You can clearly see a line left behind after running a spatula or knife through it. If you pick up some of the mixture with the spatula and left it drip down, it should leave marks in the mixture.
Above: Perfect. You can clearly see a line left behind after running a spatula or knife through it. If you pick up some of the mixture with the spatula and left it drip down, it should leave marks in the mixture. | Source

Below: This is a 'bad trace'.

Above: This is much too thick and will not pour easily into molds. It was left too long after reaching trace. Pour immediately once it reaches trace.
Above: This is much too thick and will not pour easily into molds. It was left too long after reaching trace. Pour immediately once it reaches trace. | Source
Learn how to make your own Coconut milk soap
Learn how to make your own Coconut milk soap | Source

Why did my soap turn light brown in colour?

Don't worry if your soap mixture turns a caramel colour. Your soap will whiten as it sets.

Coconut milk soap bars

Above: Coconut milk bars removed from their molds. You can see how they've gone white. Leave them to cure for 6 to 8 weeks.
Above: Coconut milk bars removed from their molds. You can see how they've gone white. Leave them to cure for 6 to 8 weeks. | Source

Cleaning up

I usually set all my dirty equipment aside and leave the soap on it to partially harden for 24 hours so that I have a ready supply of soap to clean it all with. Be sure to rinse your equipment off with clean water after you've washed it.

Please share this article if you find it helpful

Please share this article on Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest in you find it helpful. Let me know if you did in the comments box below so I can thank you. You can also rate this article below it and leave a comment in the comments box at the bottom of this page. I appreciate all comments and suggestions and I reply to all of them.

I welcome your comments

Feel free to leave comments or ask questions in the comments section below.

More by this Author

  • Castile Soap Recipe

    Castile soap is the purest soap ever. Make your own Castile soap by following this easy recipe. This soap is ideal for vegetarians and vegans.

Comments 151 comments

rajan jolly profile image

rajan jolly 3 years ago from From Mumbai, presently in Jalandhar,INDIA.

Very interesting and useful. I'm just scared of the caustic soda though. Will the soap bars turn white after the curing period? Voted up and interesting. Gave 4 stars!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you for your comment and the awesome rating :)

The bars will turn a light cream colour as they harden and then will turn even lighter as they cure.

If you follow all my safety instructions the caustic soda won't be a problem. If you're worried about it heating up, keep the milk in your freezer for an hour before you use it. Just long enough to chill it. It'll help keep the temperature of the lye down just long enough for you to safely transfer the mixture into the oils.

BrightMeadow profile image

BrightMeadow 3 years ago from a room of one's own

Very informative. Also a really great idea for Christmas gifts.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Absolutely! Which is something I was thinking this morning actually. I work as a personal carer and they will make nice, inexpensive gifts for all my clients. I'll buy some nice little bags from the bargain shop and just present them in those.

Thanks so much for your comment.

Monis Mas profile image

Monis Mas 3 years ago

I voted 5 stars! The recipe seems pretty easy, and I always wanted to make my own soap. Maybe I will find some time to finally try to do it. I had put it on Pinterest too!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you for the rating and sharing! It really doesn't take that long to make. Half an hour at the most, including preparation.

Eiddwen profile image

Eiddwen 3 years ago from Wales

A wonderful hub and I vote up,across and share all around . I now look forward to so many more by you.


sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you so much Eiddwen, you've really made my day! It's always so nice to know that someone enjoyed one of my hubs.

Cyndi10 profile image

Cyndi10 3 years ago from Georgia

Your article is so well written and illustrated, I can see why it was chosen Hub of the Day. While I doubt I will ever venture down that road of making soap, your article is so well done, I think I could definitely make coconut soap. Voted up.

SaraGardner profile image

SaraGardner 3 years ago from Finland

That is very inspiring thank you but I'm a bit confused, you keep mentioning that the mixtures will be hot but never say anything about heating do I assume that it is the reaction of the lye which creates all of the heat?

whonunuwho profile image

whonunuwho 3 years ago from United States

Very interesting article, my friend. Did you know that coconut butter melted and added to foods, is very healthful. and is seen by many in promoting healing in the brain of certain neurological disorders?

StephanieBCrosby profile image

StephanieBCrosby 3 years ago from New Jersey

I am getting into soap making. But I want to avoid using lye. I know it is important for the traditional process, but I don't want to get into heavy chemical reactions. I have seen some soaps that can be made without lye, but they combine a lot of different butters, like shea, cocoa, etc. and more exotic butters. I like the use of coconut milk, as I always have it in the house along with coconut oil because of the health benefits. Great hub, obviously :)

PegCole17 profile image

PegCole17 3 years ago from Dallas, Texas

Congratulations on winning Hub of The Day. Love the idea of making my own soap. Great step by step instructions and pictures! Voted up and sharing on Twitter.

faythef profile image

faythef 3 years ago from USA

Great article..I have been wanting to make soap for a long time now..Have even bought the scale and the stick blender some of the products..But I too am afraid up and all across..

CZCZCZ profile image

CZCZCZ 3 years ago from Oregon

Very cool idea! Congrats on getting hub of the day for this article. I'm forwarding it over to my wife as she enjoys making things and this coconut milk soap recipe seems like a relatively easy and fun thing to learn how to make. Thanks for sharing.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you for your kind comments :) Please let me know how your wife goes at making the soap if she does.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you so much for your kind comments. This was one of my favourite articles to write so it's rewarding to get feedback like yours. Having an article chosen as 'Hub of the Day' is quite an honour too, I never thought I would see one of my articles featured.

Please let me know how you go if you ever try to make the soap.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Yes, it's a reaction of the lye.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

I had heard that coconut oil and butter had many wonderful properties but I didn't know it was helpful in healing neurological disorders, that's very interesting, I'll have to read up about it. You could write a hub about it.

Monis Mas profile image

Monis Mas 3 years ago

Dear sleepylog, congratulation on Hub of The Day - you deserve it!!!

ComfortB profile image

ComfortB 3 years ago from Bonaire, GA, USA

A well written hub on coconut soap making. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. And congrats on the HOTD award.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you to everyone for all the fantastic feedback and kind words. HP seems to be having some sort of issue with replying to individual comments today so I've been unable to answer a lot of people directly. I did answer a few but they were posting as comments rather than replies. So I'll answer the rest here:

StephanieBCrosby: There's not way around using Lye to make soap from scratch unless you were to rebatch soap, which is basically melting already made soap to make soap of your own. I've never tried making soap this way but it doesn't seem too hard from what I've read. I prefer to make my own from scratch so I know exactly what's in it. Just google 'rebatching soap' and you'll be off to a great start.

Faythef: I was nervous at my first attempt too but it all went well. Just follow all my safety instructions and you'll be right. If any lye gets on your skin just wash it off right away. It's only ever happened to me once, I wore a short sleeved shirt instead of one with long sleeves. A tiny bit of lye splashed on my arm and I didn't notice until it started to itch then sting. By that stage I had already poured the soap mixture in molds. Once I realised I'd gotten some lye on my skin I put my arm under cold running water for 10 minutes and all was well afterwards... it hadn't burnt through my skin, in fact it was like the sting of a sunburn. A very large amount of lye would have been different, but basically if you wash it off right away under cold running water for 10 minutes you should be right. If it got in your eyes it could be serious, but that's why you wear protective eye wear.

kingsingh: I've been making soap for so long that I don't even remember how I got into it. I remember reading a lot of books on soap-making and reading lots of stuff on the net about it to learn more about it.

prasetio30 profile image

prasetio30 3 years ago from malang-indonesia

Very inspiring hub. You have great information and I hope can follow your instruction. Thanks for writing and share with us. Voted up!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

You're very welcome and thank you very much for the vote :) Please let me know how you at making the soap.

expertscolumn profile image

expertscolumn 3 years ago from New York

how do you "weigh 850g of olive oil" ? 1000mls is 4 cups right?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

in a bowl or other container on some kitchen scales until it reads 850g.

Learning in Life profile image

Learning in Life 3 years ago from SW Florida

I'm actually really curious about the price comparison of making your own vs. store bought

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Good question. I actually wondered the same thing myself once and did the calculations and worked out that for this recipe which produced around 1200grams of soap my costs were $8.90. So divide that by 14 (which is how many bars I made) and it comes to $0.64 cents per bar. The average weight of a bar is 85.7grams.

Learning in Life profile image

Learning in Life 3 years ago from SW Florida

Nice, thats as lot less than I thought it would be. The ingredients just look expensive.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

The coconut oil cost me $5 but I only used half for this recipe, the olive oil (a 4litre drum cost $20) but I only used 850mls of it in this recipe and the coconut milk cost around $3 and I think I used it all. The left over coconut oil and olive oil will be used in other recipes. Oh forgot about the caustic soda which cost me less than $4 for the jar of 560g, so less than 23 cents for this recipe. Add that to the 64 cents, it's still less than $1 a bar.

DommaLeigh profile image

DommaLeigh 3 years ago

Very kewl article. My sister's daughter currently is making soap to save money. I plan on showing her this. Thanks for sharing

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you DommaLeigh, I hope she likes it :)

KarenCreftor profile image

KarenCreftor 3 years ago from Kent, UK

Great hub, thanks Sleepydog!

I've just started gathering supplies to enter into soapmaking after trying the 'no poo' method and not getting on with it. So I want to make my own natural shampoo and soap and this hub is very informative and doesn't make it look too daunting :D

If, for example, I couldn't get hold of coconut oil or didn't want to use it, could I just replace it with the same amount but as more olive oil instead or maybe shea butter~ or would the quantity have to be different?

I've heard some people freeze the coconut milk to stop it burning~ have you ever tried this?


~Kaz x

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Hi KarenCreftor, thanks for reading my hub, I'm glad you enjoyed it :)

If you wanted to use something other than coconut oil you would need a different amount of caustic soda as each oil has its own saponification value. If you wanted to start experimenting with different oils and liquids such as milks or water, you should invest in a soap-making book that explains how to do this as some oils should only be used in small amounts as a ratio or percentage of the total amount of oils used.

Also I've tried to freeze coconut milk but I wouldn't recommend it because it separates as it freezes, leaving a dry/powdery film on the surface that doesn't mix back into the liquid lye properly as it melts, leaving lumps in the solution. It would probably mix back into the milk once it had melted completely but that would defeat the purpose of freezing it. You could try just leaving it in your freezer for an hour or so before using it to chill it, that would definitely help with keeping the temperature of the lye down while you work with it.

marydoa 3 years ago

that a really brilliant idea i may use it for my internal assessment in chemistry....

Myava 3 years ago

I just finished a try at goat milk soap. Waiting on it to set the 24 hrs to unmold. I will try the coconut soap next. The goat milk soap takes a lot of concentration as if I mess the temps I worry it won't turn out right. This seems pretty simple and with a little coconut essential oil it's gotta smell great!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Good for you for having a go! Goat's milk soap is great, especially for sensitive skins. I would wait 36 hours to unmould as it might still be too soft after just 24 hours.

queerlyobscure profile image

queerlyobscure 3 years ago from Melbourne, Australia

This is a great tutorial! I've always thought about making my own soap because I have really sensitive skin, and you make it sound a lot less intimidating than I thought it would be.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Thanks queerlyobscure, you should give it a go. Soap making is fun and can be quite addictive, thought I've learned to control that aspect of it, lol.

Patti 3 years ago

Thank you for all yor information.

How does one make loaf mold soap that you can still cut in four or six months. They cut and slice these in stores all the time but I cannot find any information on the recipe(s) sued for this to occur. thank you.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you for leaving a comment Patti although I'm afraid I can't answer your question as I don't know myself how it's done. Perhaps it comes down to the type of cutting instrument that is used - I've heard using a bread knife can help when cutting cured soap but I've never tried it myself. Maybe you could let me know if you ever find out as I'm curious myself?

scootch61 3 years ago

Just tried out this recipe today, it's been about 4 hours since mixing the coconut milk/lye mixture into the oils and still no sign trace. Any ideas on what the problem could be?

All ingredient amounts were exact and I used Essential Depot Lye in the exact amount prescribe in your recipe.



sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 3 years ago from Australia Author

I'm sorry to hear you're having some trouble. Unfortunately this happens to all soap makers at some stage or other and it's just a matter of trial and error. It could be that the olive oil you used wasn't 100% olive oil. The best kind of oil to use is pomace olive oil, followed by pure olive oil. Room temperature also makes a big difference, the colder it is the longer it will take for your mixture to reach trace. It could also be that your electric blender wasn't mixing fast enough, did you have it set to the highest speed?

sparkleyfinger profile image

sparkleyfinger 3 years ago from Glasgow

Great recipe, and you make it look so easy! will definitely be trying this! Thanks for such a useful hub! voted up and useful.

cheryl 3 years ago

I made this soap tonight. It was very easy. Don't be intimidated. You can take your time till you mix the lye into the coconut milk. I reached trace at 5 minutes. Can't wait for it to cure

Jaya 2 years ago

Thank you so much for a recipe with ingredients available in Australia... all the lye calculators I have used have been way off, because they come from other countries where the ingredients have been grown and processed differently, which causes disaster!

I ruined a large batch of shea butter soap using a very famous no-fail soap calculator. And yes, I did it all correctly - I even made another smaller batch to test for user error! It wasn't me, thank heaven.

I rebatched that into another new batch, and so saved it, but I was fuming about these so called lye calculators. I've gone back to a few basic recipes that I know work with what I have available.

It's so nice to have another one....thank you!

amy 2 years ago

I would like to try a batch of hand-milled soap.....any feedback on whether or not you'd recommend this particular recipe as a basic soap for that process?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

That should be OK amy, but I think you would have to wait 6 to 8 weeks for the soap to cure first as cured soap is easier to grate than uncured soap.

Jaya 2 years ago

I did this recipe a week ago... it won't come out of my moulds! It's still soft and sticky. Yes, I triple checked, and all the amounts were correct. I know olive oil soaps take longer to trace and set up, but this is ridiculous! It has partially gelled in the mould and the layer away from the air has gone greenish cream. Probably from the olive oil. I would recommend silicone moulds for this, as it is too soft to get out of a Milky Way style mould. I put one in the freezer to unmould it, and it still left some in the mould. I cut it up to rebatch, as it is really sticky like fresh fudge! It was sticking to the knife as I cut. I don't think I'll be doing this again unless I use different oils and run it through a calculator.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

Jaya it sounds like your mixture didn't saponifiy. It's possible that you reached what is called a 'false' trace, where the temperature of the mixture dropped quickly and what looked like trace was in fact the oils solidifying in the cold rather than saponifying. This can happen if you make soap in a cold environment, like a northern hemisphere winter. Sometimes it's possible to save such a batch by returning it to the soap-making pot, heating it up and mixing until it traces.

Anne Luttrull 2 years ago

I make soap on a regular basis and would like to try this. It sounds like you don't heat up the oils to 105 degrees? Do you leave the oils at room temp? Usually in soap recipes the oils and lye mixture have to be at the same temp when mixed. Is it the same for this recipe? It seems that the coconut milk is chilled and not heated up at all. Do I understand this correctly?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

That's right Anne. This soap is made using the cold-process method. There is a great explanation about the difference between hot and cold process methods at the following link, I hope it helps

Jaya 2 years ago

Hi all...

It's not false trace, I have cut into the soap and it's all beautifully combined and lathers well. I've been soaping for years, and I know what trace is like, (and false trace). I'm in Adelaide Sa and it's summer...I didn't put on the air-con either.

I have actually been on the soaping forums and this has happened to 1 or 2 people before. Rare but it happens. The soap just stays 'plastic' for a long, long time. Possibly due to differences in oil batches, so possibly one of the olive oil tins that I have has a 'difference' from the others. The coconut has been used for other batches so it wouldn't be that.

That's all I could find out, so I'll just leave it a few more weeks. I just wondered if it had happened to you before, given the coconut milk factor.

The bars I unmoulded, after freezing, still stuck in bits, but came out for the most part. The discolouration cleared up after exposure to the air.

Thanks for your help, hope you had a lovely break!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

Hi again Jaya.

Considering you're in SA, the cold shouldn't have been a factor and sometimes, soap batches just fail for no apparent reason in fact the last one I made (last week) didn't harden either as it set and I've made lots of batches with this recipe and all of them have been successful. All I can suggest is try again :)

Karrie 2 years ago

Hi! Im super excited to try this recipe. I really like alba's coconut milk shampoo but its super expensive. My question is, when I buy lye, am I looking for powder or liquid? If I can use both, what works best? Thanks!!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

Hi Karrie

I always use the solid form of lye, it comes in the form of small beads. I've never used liquid lye so I can't say which works best and to be honest I've never seen liquid lye being sold to the public anywhere. I think it's only available to industries as it's such a dangerous substance.

Anthony Moreau profile image

Anthony Moreau 2 years ago from Scottsdale, Arizona

great article.. im a big fan of coconut oil.. i use it on my skin and in my coffee.. this is the healthy fat everyone should know about...

Karrie 2 years ago

Awesome! Thanks for getting back so quickly. Another question - when you let it cure, do you cut it first, and let it cure, or wait the 6 weeks before you cut it.


sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

No problems Karrie. You should cut it first then let it cure as it will be difficult to cut cleanly once it has hardened.

melrazo profile image

melrazo 2 years ago

Thank you so much for this. I'm going to try to find some time in the next couple of weeks to try this since I've been looking for something for my son. He has very dry skin that causes him to itch daily. No commercial product seems to help. Maybe this will do it.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

I hope it helps. A lady once contacted me by email to say that this soap has helped her son's eczema, I hope it can help your son too. Please let me know how it goes, I would love to know.

WiccanSage profile image

WiccanSage 2 years ago

Awesome... I usually hand-mill soap from ready-made soap bars but once in a while I get the urge to just start from scratch. I've never tried it with coconut milk before, I'm going to give it a go next time. Great hub, thanks for sharing-- voted up.

FlourishAnyway profile image

FlourishAnyway 2 years ago from USA

I look forward to trying this. Excellent hub, and I like that you included information about a "bad trace." Voted up and more, plus pinning.

Danielle 2 years ago

How is the lather on these bars?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

You'll get some nice bubbles :)

theartplacewynwood 2 years ago

Great instructions. Can you add things to the recipe? For instance I want to make a soap with large sea salt crystals in it. At what stage would I add them? - Mollybo

JoeYoung22 profile image

JoeYoung22 2 years ago from Blyth, Northumberland, England

A very interesting hub. I only wish I had the time, space and equipment to give it a go. One day hopefully.

Matthew Hargis profile image

Matthew Hargis 2 years ago from Minnesota


sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

theartplacewynwood, I would add them immediately after trace. You will have to work quickly so that your soap mixture doesn't thicken too much and you will still be able to pour it easily.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

JoeYoung22, soap making for your own use doesn't require much space or equipment at all, so don't let that deter you if you want to give soap making a go.

Nita 2 years ago

I want to make soap and have bought books and some supplies and molds. I think the recipes involved heating on the stove. I think I would have to buy pans as I want to use mine for food. You make this seem so simple. Maybe this time I will get up the nerve. Thank you for the good instructions and pictures. I will pin to Pinterest,

Lynda 2 years ago

Does the coconut milk you use have additives in it? I have been unable to find pure coconut milk. I was afraid to try it because of the additives. Thanks.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

I agree with you Lynda that it's difficult to find coconut milk without additives and the best I could do was find a brand that only has water as an additive and even now my supermarket no longer stocks it. Have you tried looking online or at a health food store?

carloD 2 years ago

Hi, great recipe for a gently skin treatment, gives nice bubbles.

My soap did keep a caramel color. Any idea why it did not turn White?

Thx a lot

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

Hello carloD

Soap mixture that contains milk turns brown because the sugar in the milk caramelizes. Usually, once the mixture cools down as the soap sets it turns white again. However, sometimes this doesn't happen and it's usually because the mixture took too long to cool down. Did you make the soap on a very hot day or in a hot room? Maybe you left it near a heat source as it was setting? I usually leave my soap in a cool room to set.

carloD 2 years ago

The day was not particularly hot, but I wrapped with several layers of towels, which probably kept it hot too Long. Thanks a lot for your quick answer

Lynda 2 years ago

Online is my next step. Don't have a health food store close. Thanks.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

carloD, that's definitely what would have caused the soap to stay brown. It's important to let the soap cool down as it sets since this is a cold process soap.

anniam 2 years ago

I have not used milk before in cold process soap. However, my cousin sent me some from this recipe and it is WONDERFUL. I'm wondering though, about adding fragrance (lavender oil) to this recipe--I wouldn't want to mess up this lovely recipe.

Have you added fragrance? And, if not do you think it would negatively affect the soap? Thanks!!

JessicaBarst profile image

JessicaBarst 2 years ago from Dallas, TX

This is so helpful! You do such a great job of explaining for those of us who are new to (and a little intimidated by) the process of making soap.

I have dabbled in making other beauty products before but soap is one I have yet to be brave enough to attempt. This recipe looks great and thanks to your in-depth explanation, I finally feel confident enough to actually try it - and like I have all the info I need all in one place :)

I love that this coconut soap can also be used to wash hair, and I didn't realize that using palm oil contributes to the destruction of orangutan habitats - good to know.

Thanks so much! I look forward to reading more from you!

Jessica 2 years ago

Hi there! Thanks so much for this recipe. I just made my first batch, and it was so much fun! I was super freaked out about doing it, and now that it's cooing, I am WAY less intimidated about trying this again.

I was wondering if this recipe can be milled?? If so, do I need to use a different technique, or can I just pick a standard milling recipe for milk soaps?? Again, thanks so much!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

Hi Jessica, thanks for your feedback, I'm glad you had a go at making this soap and that it worked well for you. It should be OK to mill this soap, I haven't done it myself but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Maybe just start with a small amount first to see how it goes? Please let me know how it went.

Hello anniam

I'm so sorry for replying so late, I didn't realise you had left a comment. So if you haven't made a scented batch yet, here is what I would recommend: add the essential oils at trace. This soap is fragrance-free so whatever scent you choose to add shouldn't have any adverse effects on the soap. Please let me know how you go.

FreezeFrame34 profile image

FreezeFrame34 2 years ago from Charleston SC

Very interesting! I have sensitive skin and I can't use a lot of store brand soaps; they are too drying and make me itchy! I can't wait to try this!

Simran Sandhu 2 years ago

What a well written article! Out of all the others I have read, yours didn't make me nervous at all. Thanks!

I am trying to make an all-in-one bar so do you think adding either of these ingredients at trace - almond meal, coffee, activated charcoal or rose petals will add to the quality of the soap?Do you have any other suggestions?

Also, can this recipe be hot processed? If so, will the colour turn white at trace or later? Which is a better process? I just can't wait for 6 weeks ;)

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

I don't know what the end result of adding all those ingredients would be, but why not try it? If added at trace there shouldn't be any problems with the soap setting. I should be OK to use the hot process but I don't know if the soap would whiten afterwards. Also, when doing a hot process soap, you should still wait 6-8 weeks for the soap to cure. Hot processing it just means that water will evaporate from it faster and in the end you'll be left with a harder, longer-lasting bar, but it won't make the lye in it become inactive any faster than doing it by cold process, only time will do that.

Jessica 2 years ago

Hello again! I need a little help trouble shooting I think.

I made this soap 4 days ago. I made a double batch and poured it into a rubber made container for a mold. (It's what they did in my soap book)

At 48hrs I tried to pop the big brick out so I could either cut into bars to fully cure for 6 weeks or try a milling recipe. I read that milk soaps should be milled "wet"

Soooo it wouldn't come out of the big mold. Oh how I banged and pushed and squished and pulled on the mold, but to no avail. I got grumpy tossed it on the counter upside down in hopes it would magically fall out overnight and went to bed.

3rd day I got a hard spatula and scraped the sides of the mold hoping to loosen the soap brick. Didn't work.

I noticed while scraping that the soap is soft like play doh so I decided to wait another day. Maybe because it was a double batch it takes longer to harden?

Anyway, I have mutilated it now to where I can't possibly have beautify cut bars anymore so I've started scooping it out and grating it to mill and repour. It's just so soft! So now I'm worried I did something wrong and don't want to continue if I've ruined the batch. Is this normal?

When I go to the sink to rinse the soap mush off my hands it lathers right up, sooo I THINK it soaponified.

Am I on the right track or have I completely botched this thing?? LOL Any helpful advice or words of encouragement are greatly appreciated.


Simran Sandhu 2 years ago

Ahh ok. That makes things clear on how long to wait it out. Thanks for your help. Cheers!

smine27 profile image

smine27 2 years ago from Tokyo, Japan

Ohhh, I think I just might try this out for myself.

Penny G profile image

Penny G 2 years ago from Southern Iowa

I would like to pass this on to my daughter. She does make soap, but not this kind. She has a child who is alleergic to many things. This might be good for his sensitive skin. Thanks so muh for the great directions as well.

Katy 2 years ago

Can you use homemade coconut milk? (Recipe: 4 cups of warm water to 2 cups of shredded coconut blended and strained) The oil hardens when chilled and can be removed as well. Thanks!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

Hi Katy, it should be fine to use home made coconut milk, just be sure to separate the oil from it though.

anniam 2 years ago

I have made several batches of this now and have added essential oil to them for fragrance. Based on what I read elsewhere for milk-based soaps I added the essential oil to the oils before mixing in the lye. (For other cold process soaps I add just before trace).

It worked great, except for the batch where I used a eucalyptus-spearment fragrance oil rather than an essential oil. In that batch the soap came to trace too fast and was very hard to pour into the mold. That soap has turned out OK, just not as nice and smooth as the other batches.

The lesson (which I already knew from other CP soaping) is use essential oils, not fragrance oils.

PS. my favorites are lavender (of course) and lemongrass oil which I have gotten from Bulk Apothecary.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

I've never used essential oils because I prefer to make my soaps as pure as possible but it's always nice to hear from other people who use them. I wish I could give you some advice but I'm afraid I'm not qualified to do so. I too love lavender and I also love eucalyptus and orange.

Jane 2 years ago

I think it is very kind of you to post this for people

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you Jane, I hope people find it helpful.

Mel92114 profile image

Mel92114 2 years ago

Most informative article...I really enjoyed this. Going to definitely give this a go. I love making my own products and I'm always on the look out for new and different recipes. Thanks for sharing this with us.

Simran Sandhu 2 years ago

Hello! I am back after having made 3 batches of your luscious recipe. Thank you once again! Just unmoulded the third one today. What I can't get my head around is tiny white spots here and there (possibly lye pockets?) that appear as soon as the soap starts cooling whilst in the mould. The first time I thought maybe I didn't stir well enough and reached trace too soon( it was a warm day too) so I hand stirred occasionally on the second one. Not too much success. The last one I went very easy with....stirred....let it sit for a few minutes, then blended at medium speed...let sit...stir....for about 20 minutes to reach trace....I thought I did an ok job.....but they're still there!!!! albeit not too many, but still.....does this happen with you ever? I would really appreciate your advice on this one. Thanks.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

Hi Simran

I have had that happen a few times to batches of my soap and it could be a couple of things. I don't think they are lye pockets because your soap would burn your skin if that's what it was.

It could be air bubbles that formed in your soap mixture or something called soda ash. If the spots are just on the surface, then it's soda ash a very common occurrence that almost all soap makers will experience and the best way to prevent it is to spray some rubbing alcohol over your soap mix after pouring it into your molds. Use a spray bottle for this. Just a few quick sprays should do it and the alcohol will evaporate so no need to worry about it getting into your soap.

If however you find the spots all through your soap, then it's more than likely that you got air bubbles into your mix during the blending process. There are a few things you can do to minimise air bubbles:

1. When pouring your lye solution into your oils, place your stick blender into the oil and pour the lye over its shaft so that the lye runs down it.

2. Angle the end of your blending stick in your mixture and tap against the bottom of the container to release any air bubbles that might be caught in it then keep the end of the stick submerged for the duration of the mixing so that you're not introducing more air into the mix. If you need to take the stick out for any reason, just repeat the bubble releasing step before blending again.

3. Once you have poured your mixture into your mold(s), tap the mold against the surface on which it's sitting a few times to help release any air bubbles that might have formed, do this gently to avoid spillage.

I hope that helps. Let me know if it doesn't.

Simran Sandhu 2 years ago

Thank you for your detailed response!

The spots were inside and theres no powder on the surface. And now they're acting hygroscopic with tiny beads of water on their surface. (??)

So I did a mini batch, again! This time I took care to mix the NaOH crystals veryyy well into the coconut milk...sat the container in an ice bath so it wont overheat and clump....Poured it all in one go into the oils and started is where I will take your advice and pour gently onto the stick with the vessel on a tilt. Will be careful about air bubbles with the blending next time. Will have to wait until tomr to see the results on this one

Reducing the variables with each batch....With your experience and my persistence I hope to spot the problem this way. :) Will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

We'll get to the bottom of this. Sounds to me like you're using too much lye. The only way to really know is to dab a tiny amount of the beads onto your tongue. Just a very small amount onto your finger tip and then onto your tongue will let you know... if you feel a tingling sensation then it's lye, not water. It would feel very similar to the sensation you get when you put your tongue onto the terminals of a 9volt battery. Rinse off your tongue afterwards. If that's what it is just reduce the amount of Lye you use. Are you measuring your Lye and oils in grams? It's important to measure in weight and not liquids. Are you using a digital scale? They give more precise measurements than one with a needle pointing to the numbers... those are not advisable for soap making.

Is your lye solution fully dissolved or are there any lumps in it when you pour it into your oils? It should be fully dissolved. Any lumps should be filtered out with a sifter.

When you say you did a mini batch, do you mean you're reducing the quantities stated in the recipe? If so be sure you reduce all quantities equally. So if you reduce the amount of oils by half, you should reduce the amount of sodium hydroxide and coconut milk by half also.

Simran Sandhu 2 years ago

Hi! Yes, it zaps :( In hindsight I realize that my lye mix might have been a bit lumpy. Everything else is precise: the weighing scale is digital and I weigh in grams.

The mini batch turned out beautifully! Not only did it whiten right when it started setting( my previous ones are still a caramel colour), there arent any white spots either!!!yay! It was precisely half of your original measurement and instead of using a loaf mould I poured directly into 150gm silicone moulds. Also I didn't cover with a light blanket like I did with the others.

But there were air pockets right at the I need to be more careful with blending, like you suggested.

Will be trying another batch day after.... will share how that goes.

Honestly, can't thank you enough :)


sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

So there really were two things going on, the air pockets and too much lye (in this case caused by the lumps in your lye solution suggesting that the lye hadn't been completely dissolved). I'm so glad we figured it out. And yes please let me know how the next batch goes.

Besarien profile image

Besarien 2 years ago

This is what I'm making this weekend and giving away at Christmas- if mine turns out half as pretty as yours.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 2 years ago from Australia Author

It'll make a great Christmas present for anyone. Please let me know how you go.

Laura 23 months ago

Thank you for sharing this recipe. I really want to try it but i am not comfortable with using caustic soda, is there anything I could use instead?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 23 months ago from Australia Author

Unfortunately you need to use caustic soda to make soap from scratch.

blueheron profile image

blueheron 22 months ago from Odessa, MO

Thank you so much for this recipe! I've been making soap for awhile now, but haven't ventured much into milk soaps. I used your recipe as a guide to including coconut milk in one of my own recipes, since I'm so inexperienced with milk soaps. It looks good, so far!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 22 months ago from Australia Author

Thanks for reading my hub blueheron and for your feedback, I always appreciate it when people let me know how they go with trying out the recipe.

Anthony Moreau profile image

Anthony Moreau 22 months ago from Scottsdale, Arizona

what a great recipe .. i been using coconut oil in my coffee.. its the good fat good for many things

beautyandthebeast profile image

beautyandthebeast 22 months ago

Awesome! Thanks for the wonderful information.

WNJohns631 profile image

WNJohns631 22 months ago

Ah I love coconut, it's so versatile! Great recipe here, I've been debating trying to make my own soaps for a bit now. Might give this one a try :)

craftybegonia profile image

craftybegonia 22 months ago from Southwestern, United States

Very interesting! For some time now, I have wanted to try my hand at making soap, but I must confess that lye scares me. I want to find good melt-and-pour tutorials to start with, if you have never thought of making some of those, here you have your first request.

marianne 21 months ago

hi there, i've made this coconutsoap / like what is does for my skin. verry soft not dry. nice bubbles also.!!!

but... i hoped it would smel like a bounty island, whaha. but i just smell the olive-oil. and it stayed brown-isch. but i don't mind that. looks verry nice.

would a few dropps of coconut essential oil help for the smell?? thanks!!

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 21 months ago from Australia Author

Unfortunately the saponification process destroys most of the food ingredients' odours. Coconut essential oil would help but be sure to add it at trace, if you add it before trace the soap mixture will seize. As I don't use essential oils in my soaps, I can't advise you on how much to use but there is lots of information on the internet about it, so be sure to do some research first and good luck, let me know how it goes.

marianne 21 months ago

another question: my soap is still verry soft after 3 days.

it also was kind of sticky when i tried getting it out of the mold.

now it feels like some kind of playdoh :-)

wil this dry ore is this batch ruiend?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 21 months ago from Australia Author

I'm sorry to hear you're having problems. Are you using a silicone mold? They are more trouble than they're worth because they form an airtight seal around the soap bar which means it takes longer for it to harden and makes it harder to unmold. If you are indeed using a silicone mold, try placing it in the fridge overnight, you should be able to get the bar out in the morning, once it thaws, leave it to set for a couple of days. Your bar should then be fine for cutting.

If you're not using a silicone mold, then it's hard for me to say exactly what went wrong since I didn't see you making it. It should dry out and harden over time. When this happens to my soap, I usually just shape it into bars by hand and let them cure for a few weeks.

marianne 21 months ago

thanks for your fast answer. (excuse me for my bad english, i'm from holland)

i did not use a sillicone mold, just an empty pringle can,

i will let the soap rest a few weeks, and see what it will become. BTW i don't mind the problems, just lessons :-)

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 21 months ago from Australia Author

Sorry about the slower reply this time marianne, it was late here when I approved your last comment and was too tired to think clearly.

So if you didn't use a silicone mold it could be a lot of other things that caused your batch to not harden. The most obvious one would be that you misweighed the ingredients maybe?

Evie@best antifungal soap 20 months ago

Very inspiring...I'm using coconut milk soap , and worked well for skin. :-)

vocalcoach profile image

vocalcoach 20 months ago from Nashville Tn.

Thanks for this useful hub for making your own soap. Excellent instructions and fantastic photos.

Voted up, useful, awesome, interesting and will share.

Jessica 19 months ago

Just made a batch tonight with lavender oil for my little ones!

Veronica 19 months ago

I'm stoked right now! Made soap for the first time ever using this recipe and everything went really well! Like I do any food recipe, I always add a little bit of something else. In this case, a drop of Heaven Essential Oil after a good trace. Then I experienced a panic for being overzealous. I do believe I will make another batch of this recipe without the coconut flakes just as soon as the mold is free. Thank you for sharing your recipe. It was super easy to follow and a great for a novice like me.

kim 18 months ago

I am super excited to find this recipe. Thanks for taking the time to prepare it.

Pollilolli profile image

Pollilolli 18 months ago

Hi....I tried a similar recipe with coconut milk. 80% coconut milk and 20% water with 5% superfat. My soap also turn out really pate or butter. Not sure if it will be harden enough to use. This is my 2nd batch. The 1st one with 100% coconut milk. And the same thing happened. I will wait for a full month before I think of ways to rebatch both batches....sigh. I reckon the fat in the coconut milk makes the soap soft. Should I bump my super fat % down to 2% or don't super fat at all when using coconut milk....

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 18 months ago from Australia Author

Tell me all of the ingredients and the amounts that you used then I'll have a better idea of where you went wrong.

lola 18 months ago

Thanks a lot can't wait to try this

Sharon 16 months ago

Why should you avoid virgin Coconut oil?

Kayem Muni 15 months ago

In your given amount of ingredients how many soap bars can we make?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 15 months ago from Australia Author

That all depends on the moulds you use and how big the final bars will be. If you're talking about a bar of 120g, you should get about 10.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 15 months ago from Australia Author

I have heard that virgin coconut oil can be used but it's much more expensive and will not make any difference in the final product. I have never used it however so am not able to give any advice about how much lye you would need for it to saponify.

Xiu 15 months ago

Hi.. I need your advise about the measurement.

In case if we use the coconut milk, does it mean we replace the amount of water with the coconut milk?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 15 months ago from Australia Author

Yes, that's correct, substitute the water with coconut milk.

Xiu 14 months ago

Hi thanks for your information!

I made coffee soap last night, my first batch and almost failed as I couldn't get trace due to no stick blender, but finally it's correct as I kept blender use my hand.

I love ur information as you provided simple and clear information. Lovely! I will start try one by one ur recipe ^_^

Have a great day!

mani 14 months ago

What degree should I heat the oils?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 14 months ago from Australia Author

The oils do not need heating as this is a cold process soap. They just need to be liquid. Coconut oil will solidify at room temperature, so if yours is solid, stick it in a bucket of hot water until it has liquified.

Leonette Nesbitt 13 months ago

I want to know why your recipe doesn't give the temperatures of the oils and lye solution when combining the two? All other recipes I've seen needs thermometers etc? And also - won't the lye destroy the properties and flavour of the coconut milk?

Joanne 11 months ago

Thankyou so much for sharing

May i know how many minutes to mix all ingredients before i put in to the mold?

Again thank you and God bless.

Patricia 11 months ago

Made the soap last night. Followed your instructions exactly and so far the soap looks exactly as it should. Made it in orange juice carton, so the real test to see if everything went right will come when it's time to slice. But I'm sure it's going to be great. Thank you for such easy to follow instructions. I will be putting this soap in every one's stocking for Christmas.

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 11 months ago from Australia Author

Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment Patricia, I'm glad it's going well so far and I'm sure everyone will love their gift :) Merry Christmas!

Dee 11 months ago

This looks great! I will be trying my first batch this weekend (and if all works well I'll have some x-mas presents). Thank you so much for sharing this and I love that you are taking the time to give people advice etc. Can't wait to try!

Emily 10 months ago

I want to begin making my own coconut milk soap, and I found this article very helpful! I was wondering how I could use powdered coconut milk instead of liquid milk in this recipe? I've read you could add the powder in at trace. Any ideas? Could the process be as simple as adding the lye to the coconut oil and olive oil, and then adding powder at trace?

Sherry 10 months ago

I just made this soap and it was the first time ever making soap at question...when I added the lye to the got warm as I expected...I stirred it with a spatula...that melted a bit ...I wasn't sure how long to stir it for because it did look well incorporated...but when I added it to the was like wet, thick sugar...not liquid...I blended with the went to trace quite quickly...a few minutes and poured nicely into the I am waiting...just wondering if I may have done something wrong or if this all sounds normal?

Janelle 9 months ago

I made this soap the other day. I left moulds uncovered to harden for 24 hours after pouring. When removed from the moulds, the soap was a creamy colour outside, however when cut the insides were a greeny colour. Overnight the end off-cuts turned creamy white throughout, and the cut edges of the soap also turned a creamy white, and my neice thinks it smells like biscuits (?). Is this part of the normal process with this soap? I am planning on adding some coconut scent and used coffee grinds to my next batch for something different. I use the CP method to make all my other soaps and always have to wait for oils and Lye mixture to be similar temps and then cover when poured, so I was a bit unsure about this one. Also, can I use this process for goats milk soap as well? Thanks

Tuva-Lena 9 months ago

Exciting! I've already made many soaps but never coconut-milk-ones! Does the milk minimize the wipping..? I've used pure water with herbs and the wipping then took about 1 hour..! This is just fabulous and saves my arms! ;) Thank you so much and have a nice day! Greetings from Sweden and Tuva-Lena :)

Diana Abrahamson profile image

Diana Abrahamson 8 months ago from t Francis Bay

Love coconut oil for my skin so it makes sense to try your coconut milk soap! Thanks for your great hub.

Madi 8 months ago

Very well written article, and easy to understand considering I've never made soap before.

Will be trying this out soon. :)

patricia endris 7 months ago

Curious, am I suppose to cover and wrap the soap for 48 hrs?

sleepylog profile image

sleepylog 7 months ago from Australia Author

There is no need to cover them at all.

Rae 2 months ago

If I put coconut milk in my soap recipe instead of the distilled water would I have to make adjustments to other ingredients (Coconut oil, Palm oil, olive oil, shea buttler, essential oils and of course lye)

freetibet99 5 weeks ago

Hi! The cost of olive oil is prohibitive in my country. Can I omit the olive oil and instead use 1 kg coconut oil for this recipe? If so, can you please tell me how much sodium hydroxide to use? Thank you.

Laura 16 hours ago

Would it be possible to do half and half coconut shreds and ground coffee as the exfoliant? Thinking of making these for Christmas gifts since the directions are so amazing!

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