Bespoke Wooden Wildlife Camera Stand: Design, Construction & Field Test

Updated on September 25, 2019
Nathanville profile image

When presented with a problem I like to find a simple, inexpensive and effective, often novel or innovative, solution.

The Dawning of an Idea

A couple of years ago my wife bought me a wildlife camera as a birthday present, which I’ve been using to film wildlife in our back garden, particularly the foxes; and which we take with us when on holiday.

Because it’s been so useful, this year my wife treated me to a second wildlife camera, and as with the first one the camera kit included a mounting arm.

I didn’t bother using the mounting arm with the first camera because it needs to be permanently fixed in one location to a vertical surface such as a wall, or fence, and as I’m moving the camera around all the time to different locations around the garden it seemed pointless. Therefore, I just put the first mounting arm somewhere safe in my workshop (yet to be found)!

However, on receiving the second wildlife camera, it occurred to me that perhaps it might be useful if I could design and make an adjustable stand for the mounting arm, which I could then use in various locations around the garden.

Wildlife camera mounting arm.
Wildlife camera mounting arm.

Formulating the Idea

Having come up with the idea, the next step was to formulate it into a design that would meet specific criteria:-

  • For the stand to be adjustable to allow the wildlife camera to be positioned at different heights.
  • To be made from materials that would weather well e.g. hardwood or pressure treated softwood.
  • To recycle salvaged wood, rather than buy new, so that it wouldn’t cost anything to make.
  • For the legs to be on feet to make it easier to use on uneven ground.
  • To keep the design as simple as possible to make.
  • To keep the wildlife stand as simple as possible to use.
  • For the stand not to be an eyesore when left outside in the garden.
  • The option of making it multipurpose e.g. also double up as a coffee table for the patio.

First Draft Proposal

My first concept was to fix the metal mounting arm to a wooden plate that would slide up and down a wooden poll and fixed in place at the desired height with pegs.

The design would have been a little complex to make and use, and would have looked a little too clunky; and I wasn’t too happy about various aspects of my design for the legs.

Consult a Friend

Therefore I drew up a rough sketch and, over a cup of coffee, consulted a friend for his ideas.

Once I’d explained what I wanted to achieve, and what my criteria was, my friend quickly drafted his own sketch for a design which I loved, and adopted for this project.

The Design

My friend’s design was simplicity in itself:-

  • Make the wooden plate, for securing the metal mounting arm to, from a piece of wood with two cut of sections from a broom handle fixed to it as the pegs, which could be secured on the other side of a wooden post with a metal tent peg.
  • Use a square post for the stand, with lots of holes drilled at regular intervals down the whole length of one side of the post, and another set of holes on the adjacent side at intermediate intervals, for greater flexibility.
  • With the holes in the post drilled a little wider than the diameter of the broom handle for easy operation and to reduce the risk of the pegs getting stuck due to wood expansion in a damp environment.
  • A simple cross design for the legs to maximise on structural strength, while minimising on encroaching on the height of the post e.g. to keep the option of fitting the wildlife camera to the pose low to the ground.

Sourcing the Materials

In rummaging through my wood store at the back of my workshop the wood I found ideal for this project was:-

  • Spare broom handle; for the pegs for the mounting arm base plate.
  • An off cut of pressure treated pine decking; ideal for making the mounting arm base plate.
  • Pressure treated 4 inch square pine fence post; ideal for making the post for the camera stand, and
  • Four pieces of 2 inch square teak hardwood (salvaged wood); ideal for making the legs.

Also at the back of the shed I had an assortment of metal tent pegs and durable plastic feet salvaged from old home office furniture.

Construction Step-by-step Guide

The base plate for the mounting arm was constructed in three phases as an integral part of making and testing the main post, with the other main elements of construction being the post itself, the legs, and then fitting the feet.

Base Plate for Mounting Arm

A piece of decking off-cut is just the right width for the mounting arm, and being pressure treated pine will weather quite well.

So for the first part of its construction all I needed to do was:-

  • Mark a centre line for drilling one hole at each end to snuggly fit the broom handle; with a tape measure, square and pencil.
  • Drill two 25mm (1 inch) holes (one at each end); the diameter of the broom handle, and.
  • Cut the wood to length with a mitre saw.

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Marking up the base plate to drill the two holes for fitting the wooden pegs.Positioning the base plate on the bench drill for drilling the two holes.Two holes drilled in base plate for fitting the wooden pegs.Base plate cut to the required length.
Marking up the base plate to drill the two holes for fitting the wooden pegs.
Marking up the base plate to drill the two holes for fitting the wooden pegs.
Positioning the base plate on the bench drill for drilling the two holes.
Positioning the base plate on the bench drill for drilling the two holes.
Two holes drilled in base plate for fitting the wooden pegs.
Two holes drilled in base plate for fitting the wooden pegs.
Base plate cut to the required length.
Base plate cut to the required length.

Post to Mount the Base Plate

The two pegs (made from the broom handle) that would be fitted to the base plate would slot into the post at whatever height I wanted to mount the wildlife camera.

Therefore to ensure the holes were correctly spaces I used the base plate as a template:-

  • Placing the base plate at one end of the post and pencilling in the two holes.
  • Move the base plate up the post so that the first hole in the base plate was above the pencilled circled for the second hole, and then pencilled in the third hole.
  • Repeat the above process until the base plate is at the other end of the post.
  • Turn the post over a quarter turn and repeat the above step so that the holes on the adjacent side are at intermediate intervals.

Having pencilled out all the holes I then used a 28mm (1 & 1/8th inch) flat drill bit to drill all the holes:-

  • Position the post in the bench drill and drill each hole in turn for as far as the bench drill allows the drill bit to descend; which is about half way through the wood.
  • Use a long drill bit in an electric drill, to drill pilot holes through the middle of each hole, making sure it goes all the way through the wood; to give a pilot hole on the other side as a marker for knowing where to drill from the other side to complete the holes.
  • Using the pilot holes as a guide, complete drilling the holes on the reverse sides of the post with the bench drill.

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Using the base plate as a template to mark out the holes in the post.Pencilling around the inside of both holes in the base plate, to mark out where to drill the holes in the post.Using the bench drill to drill the holes in the post.Drilling holes on adjoining side of post, to provide greater flexibility. Using electric drill to pilot hole through the post holes, to indicate where to use the bench drill on the other side to complete the holes.
Using the base plate as a template to mark out the holes in the post.
Using the base plate as a template to mark out the holes in the post.
Pencilling around the inside of both holes in the base plate, to mark out where to drill the holes in the post.
Pencilling around the inside of both holes in the base plate, to mark out where to drill the holes in the post.
Using the bench drill to drill the holes in the post.
Using the bench drill to drill the holes in the post.
Drilling holes on adjoining side of post, to provide greater flexibility.
Drilling holes on adjoining side of post, to provide greater flexibility.
Using electric drill to pilot hole through the post holes, to indicate where to use the bench drill on the other side to complete the holes.
Using electric drill to pilot hole through the post holes, to indicate where to use the bench drill on the other side to complete the holes.

Making and Fitting the Pegs to Base Plate

With the mitre saw, I cut two identical pegs from the broom handle, long enough to go through the base plate and post, with a couple of inches protruding on the other side for slotting the tent peg into.

I then glued and screwed them into the base plate.

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Wooden pegs cut to size from a broom handle.Pegs glued in place, and pilot hole drilled for adding a securing screw.Pegs screwed in place for added durability.
Wooden pegs cut to size from a broom handle.
Wooden pegs cut to size from a broom handle.
Pegs glued in place, and pilot hole drilled for adding a securing screw.
Pegs glued in place, and pilot hole drilled for adding a securing screw.
Pegs screwed in place for added durability.
Pegs screwed in place for added durability.

Making the Legs

I simply cut the four pieces of teak timber to equal lengths, of about 18 inches in length, and securely screwed them to the base of the post, and to each other, in a crisscross pattern.

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Four lengths of salvaged hardwood teak to be recycled as for the legs for the stand.The hardwood timber cut to length and screwed to the base of the post, and to each other in a crisscross pattern for maximum strength and durability. Stand, with base plate slotted in, stood up on its legs.
Four lengths of salvaged hardwood teak to be recycled as for the legs for the stand.
Four lengths of salvaged hardwood teak to be recycled as for the legs for the stand.
The hardwood timber cut to length and screwed to the base of the post, and to each other in a crisscross pattern for maximum strength and durability.
The hardwood timber cut to length and screwed to the base of the post, and to each other in a crisscross pattern for maximum strength and durability.
Stand, with base plate slotted in, stood up on its legs.
Stand, with base plate slotted in, stood up on its legs.

Fitting the Feet

The plastic feet, which were salvaged from redundant modern home office furniture, have a steel thread through the middle which screws into the base of furniture.

Therefore, I simply drilled a hole on the underside of each leg, near the ends, using a drill bit just a millimetre smaller, and screwed the feet to the legs.

The advantage of having the feet is that it makes it easier to reposition the wildlife stand on uneven ground so that the stand doesn’t rock about but stays firm.

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Holes drilled slightly smaller than steel thread of feet, and plastic feet screwed in.The plastic feet screwed into the ends of the four legs.
Holes drilled slightly smaller than steel thread of feet, and plastic feet screwed in.
Holes drilled slightly smaller than steel thread of feet, and plastic feet screwed in.
The plastic feet screwed into the ends of the four legs.
The plastic feet screwed into the ends of the four legs.

Retaining Pin for Base Plate

With the stand and base plate made, the only thing remaining was the addition of the retaining pin to secure the base plate to the wildlife stand when in use.

This was a simple task of pushing the base plate into position on the stand and pencil marking on the two wooden pegs where they came out on the other side of the post.

Then drilling a couple of holes, at the marked locations on the wooden pegs, a little bigger than the thickness of the metal tent peg; so the tent peg would easily drop into position when required.

With the woodwork complete I then quickly tested the base plate, with the retaining pin, in all the holes in the stand, to ensure a proper and easy fit; before giving it a full field test in our back garden.

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Steel tent peg used as retaining pin.  Holes drilled in wooden pegs for tent peg to drop into place.Base plate for mounting arm pegged and pinned into place.Wildlife stand complete and ready for field test.
Steel tent peg used as retaining pin.  Holes drilled in wooden pegs for tent peg to drop into place.
Steel tent peg used as retaining pin. Holes drilled in wooden pegs for tent peg to drop into place.
Base plate for mounting arm pegged and pinned into place.
Base plate for mounting arm pegged and pinned into place.
Wildlife stand complete and ready for field test.
Wildlife stand complete and ready for field test.

Field Test

All the wildlife cameras come with their own strap to fix them to tree trunks, fence posts etc., but that may not always be the most desirable location, and you are limited in adjusting the angle (especially the vertical angle), and it can be quite fiddle and time consuming strapping the camera in place.

Therefore the advantages of using the wildlife camera stand includes:-

  • The metal mounting arm pivots both horizontally and vertically; so you can fine tune the exact angle and direction you want.
  • The stand allows you to choose the most desirable height for mounting the camera; generally the same height as the animal you wish to capture on film, so that you are looking headlong into the animal rather than from above
  • You can put the stand just about anywhere you like; without worrying about trying to find something to strap it to, and
  • The stand has been designed that the camera can be set up quickly very quickly and easily, without wasting any time trying to strap it to something and then a few days later unstrapping it.

Although I haven’t yet found the mounting arm for my first wildlife camera, and when I do I can make a second base plate for it to also fit on the stand, the first camera does strap to the stand quite easily so that I can use the stand for both camera at the same time and increase the chances of getting good footage.

The advantage of using two wildlife cameras together is that if a fox or some other animal is sitting just outside the viewing area of one camera, it may be in full view in the other camera.

Field Test of Wildlife Camera Stand

Multi-purposing the Camera Stand

From experience of using my first wildlife camera, the stand doesn’t need to be any higher than table top. Therefore, as I like to make things multipurpose where possible, as a separate project I’m mindful to make a removable table top (that just slips onto the top of the post) so that optionally I can also use it as an additional table on our patio.

Using a Wildlife Camera Your Back Garden

Do you or would you use a wildlife camera in your back garden?

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This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

Questions & Answers

    © 2019 Arthur Russ

    Your Comments

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      • Nathanville profile imageAUTHOR

        Arthur Russ 

        2 weeks ago from England

        Thanks, yes it's a fascinating project that gives a good insight into what goes on in our back garden when we're not there.

        One future project I'd like to do with the footage is a compilation of wildlife in our back garden through the four seasons.

      • Eurofile profile image

        Liz Westwood 

        2 weeks ago from UK

        I admire your ingenuity. You must be collecting a fair amount of footage now of wildlife in your back garden.

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